Can I use an existing can of Resene Quckdry waterborn primer undercoat over new gib and plaster - or do I need to use a sealer first? This will be a bathroom and kitchen area
pete48,
Sep 28, 7:30am
x1
Using Resene QuickDry waterborne primer undercoat is a great option for painting new gib and plaster. In fact, it's a common choice among homeowners and professionals alike, because of its fast-drying formula and excellent adhesion to most surfaces.
Before applying the primer, you'll want to make sure the gib and plaster are clean and dry. Any dust or debris can affect the adhesion of the primer, so it's important to wipe the surface down with a clean, damp cloth and let it dry completely before painting. If you're worried about any stains or marks on the surface, you can also use a stain-blocking primer to ensure a smooth finish.
As for whether you need to use a sealer first, it really depends on the condition of the surface. If the gib and plaster are new and haven't been painted before, you should be fine to use the Resene QuickDry primer without a sealer. However, if the surface is particularly porous or has been previously painted with oil-based paint, you may want to consider using a sealer to ensure the primer adheres properly.
One thing to keep in mind is that because this will be a bathroom and kitchen area, it's important to choose a paint that is resistant to moisture and mildew. Resene QuickDry is water-resistant, but if you want extra protection, you may want to consider using a paint specifically designed for high-moisture areas. Resene Kitchen & Bathroom paint is a great option for these types of spaces, as it contains a fungicide to prevent mold and mildew growth.
Using Resene QuickDry waterborne primer undercoat is a great choice for painting new gib and plaster. Just make sure to prep the surface properly and choose a paint that's suitable for the high-moisture areas you'll be painting.
bexter2,
Sep 28, 7:42am
quick dry is a primer. what you need for a bathroom is sureseal, which is an oil based sealer.
A primer is for something hard eg Timber, cement board, A sealer is for something porous eg gib, plaster, concrete
fordcrzy,
Sep 28, 8:04am
quick dry will be FINE for bathroom and kitchen i did a bathroom 10 years ago with quickdry and its lasted fine. just get the bathroom suitable topcoat (zylon? )
lissie,
Sep 28, 10:09am
I haven't got time to stuff around with anything oil-based - we are doing our own painting but using builders so I need to be able to get in quick and do the painting between the gib stoppers finishing and the kitchen installers/2nd fix plumbing happening.
@forcrzy - was that over new gib? Yes I know I'll need a suitable top coat - I think I used zylon last time
bexter2,
Sep 29, 4:18am
Oh well, I'm a painter, who has worked for Resene ( as a manager) and dulux in Australia, but what would I know. Good luck to ya!
Why did you even ask for advice when you were going to proceed with what you've got whatever the response
lissie,
Sep 29, 4:24am
Because in 2 responses I have 2 exactly opposite responses - yes you can - and no you can't. I have Mitre 10 telling me is all I need is Zinnser and the 2 top coats.
It's incredibly difficult to get accurate information on this - according the Resene website I need about 1/2 dozen different products - given that it's hard to get a tin of anything for under $100 - that's a helluva lot of money.
I"m trying to work out what the minimium I need to spend in time and materials for a job that will last at least 10 years - by then I'll probably be bored with the colour and want to redecorate!
@bexter2 - with no sig in this forum how would I know your background?
fordcrzy,
Sep 29, 4:57am
our bathroom was brand new gib which was square stopped. quick dry straight onto the gib/plaster then the topcoat. (i cant remembr the exact name of the topcoat but its the stuff they use for bathrooms pretty sure its zylon) came out perfect and lasted perfectly too for 10+years then we sold house. same deal for kitechen. new gib /quickdry/normal wallboard paint. went on fine. i even glued splash back tiles to it without issue.
Architraves ???Block and brickwork ???Cement plaster ???Cloth and woven wallcoverings ???Particle board ???Repaint old work ???Timber (including Matai, Spotted Gum and Totara)
**Wallboards** (Gib)
???Wallpaper
johotech,
Sep 29, 5:16am
Maybe you should actually read the datasheets before you post.
That data sheets says "New paperfaced plasterboard, solid and fibrous plaster and old powdery cementitious surfaces may be sealed with either Resene Sureseal (see Data Sheet D42) or Resene Broadwall Waterborne Wallboard Sealer (see Data Sheet D403). Consult Resene."
There is nothing on that datasheet that says it is a sealer at all.
There is nothing more difficult about oil based sealer than water based. Brush and a roller - same as water based. Just throw away the roller sleeve when you're done. Clean the brush with some turps and then hot soapy water. Or if you have to stop overnight or whatever, just leave the brush in about 2cm of turps, then shake it out when you're ready.
I've been using the same brush for oil based primers for the last 6 houses I've painted in the last 2 years.
johotech,
Sep 29, 5:32am
"Wallboards" does not mean Gib.
pete48,
Sep 29, 5:44am
Read the word "may" New paperfaced plasterboard, solid and fibrous plaster and old powdery cementitious surfaces may be sealed with either Resene Sureseal (see Data Sheet D42) or Resene Broadwall Waterborne Wallboard Sealer (see Data Sheet D403). Consult Resene. OP asked if quickdry could be used. I'm not here to get into an argument, merely offer sound advice. Peter
fordcrzy,
Sep 29, 6:07am
to be fair to pete48, we did use QD on some old stripped back plaster which was kind of "sugary", and dthe QD didnt stick well at all. but the new stopping was ok
johotech,
Sep 29, 6:25am
The problems isn't going to be getting bored with the colour - if there is a failure in paint in 5 or 10 years time because they didn't use a Gib sealer first - it is going to be a s#!t of a mess to try and repair and repaint. All to save $100 on a bucket of sealer on a $20k? bathroom and kitchen renovation.
zak410,
Sep 29, 6:45am
Yes it does, Gib is a trade name only for Winstone's wallboards.IMO
" GIB® is manufactured at Winstone Wallboards two New Zealand plants, located in Auckland and Christchurch. For further information visit the GIB® website."
That sounds simple, but in RESENE datasheets, they specifically state "Paperfaced plasterboard" and "Air-dry (polymer based) stoppings and finishing compounds" for products designed to be used on Gib and Gibstopping.
You and Lissie can use whatever product you like. Or you can go and talk to Resene about their products if that's what you want to use.
But don't come back complaining on here or to your gibstopper, because you can see the stopping through the topcoats, or because your topcoats have a different texture where the stopping is, when you haven't used the recommended sealer as the first coat.
johotech,
Sep 29, 7:51am
I've seen plenty of paint jobs where stopping lines are visible. And others where the paint has flaked right back to bare Gib. Obvious that they weren't sealed and prepared properly.
myrns,
Sep 29, 8:15am
Pigmented sealer in bathrooms and maybe kitchen, broadwall sealer for new gib for other rooms. If painting bathrooms best to use spacecoat NOT zylone . Zylone is fine for bedrooms etc but marks easily. If painting over exsisting paint I find APUC very good and can be tinted. Stick to what resene recommends dont take short cuts.
lissie,
Sep 29, 9:59am
I'm don't know much about painting but I am very familiar with writing technical instructions - that quote says to be me that I MAY use sealer over new gib and plaster - but I don't HAVE to. If it was contra-indicated there would have been a clear NOT RECOMMENDED or XYZ must be used - as they do have for e.g. covering existing enamel MUST be sanded
myrns,
Sep 29, 10:17am
Thats what we in the industry call an 'askhole'. someone who asks for advice then does the opposite anyway.
bexter2,
Sep 29, 8:56pm
yeah your right haha,
A 'wallboard' is more than likely a wall covering eg Mdf, Chipboard, hardboard, hardies.
Paperfaced plaster board is gib,
Quick dry is an Acrylic Primer Undercoat, NOT a sealer.
The OP has it in her mind what she is going to use, and no advice in this forum will change her mind, we are all wasting our time answering her question and arguing amongst ourselves.
There is a great quote: "If you think hiring a professional is expensive. Hire an amateur!"
Jono was right, saving $100 on what could be a $20k kitchen bathroom reno is a false economy. Even if it lasts 10+ Years, it will more than likly fail and the walls will need to be stripped and that means more work.
The OP should do as the manufacturer recommends, then the comeback will be on them.
hezwez,
Oct 1, 5:16am
Hi everyone, thought I'd ask here rather than start a new thread. after a painter has finished is it normal practice to ask if they have any leftover paint, and ask for paint receipts? TIA
myrns,
Oct 1, 5:35am
It is common practice that painters always leave the paint. I dont know about asking for receipts, no harm in asking.
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