Electric drill for Gib (DIY)

jh34, Jul 4, 11:20pm
I don't really like junk but I don't need trades mans quality (I see tradesman??

cagivachick1, Jul 4, 11:31pm
any variable speed drill will work, gib is soft, wood is soft and gib screws are sharp, dont screw them in to far you dont want to break the paper with the screw head

jh34, Jul 4, 11:41pm
In that case my 14.4V Black and Decker might be O.K. It just never seemed very powerful.
Do you usually pre drill the holes (it's going into rimu)?

omamari, Jul 4, 11:48pm
Your drill should be fine. Have you consider glueing? Quicker and less holes to fill

cagivachick1, Jul 4, 11:51pm
no to predrilling, try with your drill and see, i have used a small milwalkee battery drill and my son who is a app bldr uses either his rattat or a 18volt drill, make sure that you glue as well but dont screw through the glue, the boy usually glues the middle of the sheets and screws the perimeters, try not to have any butt joins as well

zak410, Jul 5, 12:00am
You may have to pre drill if you have some heart rimu in there; gib screws can break quiet easily.
Your drill may be fine for it, do some tests.

johotech, Jul 5, 12:26am
Get yourself one of these and use your battery drill on high speed. If it is over driving the screws and breaking the paper, reduce the pressure on the drill so it slips in the screw slot a bit sooner.
http://www.bunnings.co.nz/irwin-phillips-head-drywall-screwdriver-insert-bit-no-2-25mm-_p06320349

bill1451, Jul 5, 1:04am
Johotech wouldnt you just crank back the torque setting on the battery drill.
This fitting is obviously designed to take the screw so it just goes past flush
On the jib, once the wider diameter hits the jib thats it, that screw aint going anywhere no more, go the highlanders.

johotech, Jul 5, 2:05am
Using the clutch on the drill isn't necessary. Those bits are designed to slip at the correct depth. You do still have to be careful with hardwood studs. Use 32mm screws at the most.

skin1235, Jul 5, 3:04am
and for heart timber studs use the fine screw type not the course ones

I have a gib job in the making, a reno that has escalated in size, should have been a bout 5 sheets now 30 and counting, so though I'd bite the bullet and buy a gun
whoa, that sat me down quick - the cheaper versions are over 600, and I already know they don't hack more than a bout 3000 screws then the ratchet system is worn out, the better brands are over 1000 to buy new

so I got 4 of those tips joho has indicated, this reno is in an old 1890 built house, the studs still ring when you thump them, did a couple of trials toady, 32mm fine thread are no problem at all, 32mm course snap the screws

mack77, Jul 5, 5:47am
I find "johotech"s advice rather hard to accept. It is a bad idea to let the screwdriver bit slip in the Philips head of the gib screw as it will quickly wear out the screwdriver bit and damage the screw head which will stop you from driving it in further if, you find later that it's a little high.
I believe the correct way is to set the clutch so that it slips when the screw is at the correct depth.
I find that the best battery driver is one that has plenty of torque and very precise slow speed control. This enables one to "seat" the screw precisely.
Get a copy of the Gib Guide Book from any big gib retailer or just phone the NZ manufacturer of gib; they will send you one for free and then you will know more than anyone else about doing gib lining.

johotech, Jul 5, 6:12am
Well sorry, I didn't design these bits. But that is exactly what they are designed to do - which is also exactly what a screw gun does - slips the bit out of the screw when it reaches the set depth.

That's why those bits are only $3. They are designed as a simple method to insert the screws quickly.

Hardwood studs are difficult to master. Sure, you'll break a few screws, just put another one in next to it.

The only other option is to precisely set the screws with an impact driver. You'll still break screws.

Using the clutch won't set the screws any better and you'll end up with more uneven screws than setting them fast with the tip. With hardwood, most of the screw breaks you will get, are when you end up with them too high, and you slowly try and turn them another half turn or so. Snap.

Best option with hardwood - screw them in fast to the correct depth in one go.

skin1235, Jul 6, 12:24am
plus they have quite an impressive hardness factor, they sure are not soft mild crap like the generic set of driver bits you buy cheap with 10 No2 phillips bits included - 4 screws and toss it

I'll let you know by Thursday, as above I have about 30 sheets to put up, and only 4 bits to play with

johotech, Jul 6, 12:32am
Interested to hear how you go. You're correct, those tips don't last forever, especially with hardwood. I think you'll get it done easily with less than 4 bits.

Which glue are you using?

zak410, Jul 6, 12:43am

skin1235, Jul 6, 12:50am
green shit, gorilla?, 6 tubes on hand, have a few tubes of liquid nails if I run short

blueviking, Jul 6, 3:47pm
I've used one of those bits for nearly a year now. Doesn't matter what you're screwing into, you never go through the gib. Done a whole house ceilings with 13mm. When screwing into rimu you will get hard spots and soft spots so these bits save you from continually changing the clutch setting. If it's an older 14.4 volt into rimu, you may find the charge doesn't last very long. But some clouts and nail around the edges.

russ18, Jul 6, 11:02pm
that's all I use.

johotech, Nov 29, 6:06am
Not sure of the logic for economy there. Spend $600+ on gib, plus stopping etc & all your valuable time, but you want to save $50 not buying quality glue?

Saw Gib Fix One on special at Mega today. $5.75 shelf price for the large size tubes. You would need 8-10 tubes at most.

It's the glue that holds the sheets on, not the screws - except for the edges. Also it's the glue that stops the sheets moving and popping screws if it gets bumped.

And using a unapproved glue, there is a good possibility that the glue could shrink and pop the stopping as well.