Hi. Im tearing old 3mm dark ply off walls in hall and down stair well with one landing before bottom. 11 risers in all.
Lower stair drop where first landing is is about 2400 down by 1760 wide to what was skirting and then another 1220 to 1800 of drop as we drop 5 risers. Top part of stairwell is just 2400 down and about 2400 wide so that's simple.
Re the bottom part is it best to still hang the gib vertical for the first 2400 and then .
How far apart should the top 2400 drops be from the bottom drops to allow for gib stopper to come in and do that bit for me? We are going to attempt to hang gib ourselves!
Ta
budgel,
May 25, 9:26pm
It is a bit hard to follow what you mean. Go to a builders merchant and ask for the free Gib site guide. This book covers every aspect of fixing and stopping Gib. You should be able to figure it out from there. Any decent stopper will be able to accommodate your small shortcomings in fixing the Gib.
mtbotrev,
May 26, 7:36am
Ta. Guess what I was saying was I have an area 1760mm wide by 3.6 high down left at end of landing, going to 4.2m on right after walking down 4 steps. Im thinking 2 2.4ms going vertical then a 2.4 sideways with a 2 joins is cleanest. but I take your point about a stopper.
johotech,
May 26, 7:47am
That sound like a horrible plan and a recipe for cracking in the future.
Your description of the job is totally confusing.
Best way to hang gib is horizontal with no vertical joints and no flat to taper joints. Sheets are all different sizes to fit walls up to 6m long, so there should (almost) never be a need to have a vertical joint.
Read the Gib site guide as Budgel said. It tells you how to fit and where you shouldn't have joins.
Consider where the light is coming from before deciding to go horizontal or vertical . If you have a skylight , Id always go vertical .
mtbotrev,
May 27, 8:19am
Thanx for the drawing. close enough representation! At the bottom of those steps is another landing and door into the man cave. Across the top of the door is a area of about 760 by 200 which will need gibbing as well. I get the gist of the sheet laying albeit it might use part of an extra sheet and would try an extend the piece as one over the top of the door.
My son was trying to persuade me to hang the sheets vertically to get the 2400 drops done easier given we are going to be glueing and screwing some 3.6 m up on a ladder I guess.
I do see that the preferred way is sideways. If I did that how much gap do I leave between sheets 2 and 3 on your diagram please?
johotech,
May 27, 9:11am
So you might want to adjust the height of the sheets so the sheet is continuous right over the top of the door. It doesn't matter if you have an odd size piece at the bottom on each side of the door, as that will come from offcuts. Don't be tempted to fill in spaces with sheets sideways resulting in a flat to taper joint. The gib stopper would much prefer a couple of additional taper joints, instead of a flat to taper joint.
A few small vertical flat-flat joints won't matter as long as they are on studs. Having these joints in the (top) middle of doors or windows, reduces their size. Places to especially avoid joints are in the corners of doors or windows - that goes for vertical or horizontal joints.
You don't leave any gap between any sheets or in the corners, although obviously you have to allow some clearance to be able to fit the sheets.
Of course I'm assuming you're doing a full job of it, removing all skirting, architraves & cornice - not just butting the gib up to the old ones.
zak410,
May 27, 10:19am
best for the stopper, start full size from the top, horizontally and work your way down, no gap between sheets and tight corners.
mtbotrev,
May 28, 8:12am
Yes :>).One of the conundrums we have is the old dark panel sheets are about 5mm so the gib will come out further off the stud and be nearly flush with two door frames(architrave). We think that will look okay and if it doesn't we will double architrave around the door that leaves entrance foyer to go to main living space.
ceebee2,
May 31, 11:33pm
You could ease the architraves off and renail over the gib
mtbotrev,
Jun 2, 7:52am
That would leave thickness of gib exposed on inside of door frame by my calculations.
I exposed all of the lower levels today. found that for some it is dressed 100 x 25 nailed on to continuous concrete wall and others is internal. One small wall 680x 2200 is packed out on one side(ie packing and then the dressed piece) and not on the other. Will see how it looks when I cut a sheet.and trail fit it. Would that be hung vertically rather than say 1020 and 1200 or do I stick with the 900/1200/120 in this case?
Ta.
BTW I will get a stopper in to fix up my shortcomings.
golfaholic2,
Jun 2, 7:54pm
Once again , joins should run parallel with the direction light runs across the sheets . If you have a skylight , or strong lighting at the top of the stair well . you fix vertically . Less experienced tradies are hung up on "fix horizontally" without fully understanding the logic .
The wall you just described , fix vertical . with no joins . And , it could be a good idea to remove the tapered edges
mtbotrev,
Jun 3, 7:36am
Cheers golfaholic2. Light at top is natural coming across landing from a front door. Down two small flights of stairs there is no drect natural light unless mancave door is open but door is at back of the room.
Johotech. in your second diagram which sheet should I hang first please!. yeah I know. dumb question.
davepro,
Jun 8, 4:57am
Thought - maybe choose a stopper before you do the job, and get their on-site advice?
David
mtbotrev,
Jun 24, 9:20am
Just an update. coming along well as drafted/planned by Johotec :>). one more sheet to hang on highest wall. most of the rest has been done and now awaits gib stopping. Eldest son got right into it with demo and gibbing so pleased so far.
zak410,
Jun 24, 10:18am
Any butt joints?
johotech,
Dec 8, 3:49pm
Great that you are getting into it. Hope the stopper is happy ;)
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