Who can point me to plans for my next job. The office is inside a bigger building & hasn't currently got a roof on that office. I want to build a roof /ceiling thats going to be strong enough to walk on & store light weight gear up there.
zak410,
Apr 24, 2:54pm
So, no ceiling yet ?
You need to know what the partitions are made of, how well they are buit and braced.
If solid and well braced just add some floor joists over, above the studs, then floorboards above and ceiling below if needed ?
martin11,
Apr 24, 3:23pm
If you cannot work out what you need get someone who can do the job properly .
mrfxit,
Apr 24, 6:49pm
LOL chill dude. Thats not how you learn new tricks at all & not the DIY Kiwi way either.
mrfxit,
Apr 24, 6:54pm
. Spacing for a walking on floor. Size timber at a minumum 4m x 4m office, Walls were pro built a few years ago by a previous tenants builder & attached to the buildings outer walls. Dressed 4x2 spaced at approx 1.1m Single top plate Gib on the inside
skin1235,
Apr 24, 7:41pm
dave, that spacing indicates it ain't strong enough for a walk on floor above, should be a min of 600 and for a floor supporting wall should be 450 But if one side is open ( unclad) you can easily add more studs, make sure each joist has a stud under it - do not just rest the joist on that top plate with nothing under it, the 4 mt becomes an issue then, you may need to put double stud at 2mts and put a beam in, otherwise it becomes a trampoline, leave that beam as on exposed to the lower office and gib the bottom of the joists above as the office ceiling if that is the required finish
martin11,
Apr 25, 8:54am
I have a nice business going fixing up a lot of DIY jobs that have gone wrong or been built incorrectly . Its a very good income !
mrfxit,
Apr 25, 10:07am
Now THAT. is a good answer. What about a 4x4 as an extra top plate on the walls with the 5x2 rough sawn on top. (4x2 on side + 4x4 on top) Getting access to the outside of the office walls isn't that easy at the moment.
krames,
Apr 25, 11:21am
yes 4ms is too far a span for 4/2s ,need a under purlin strut/beam mid way
mrfxit,
Apr 25, 11:28am
Yes hence asking for advice to give an idea on what to do/ ask about
Yea got a bit of sag on a high 4.8 long 1m wide shelf with 3 x 5x2 rough sawn under it. Going to be putting a couple of uprights under the middle of that shortly but it's only for light weight gear anyway
*&*&$%#* gravity can be a pain at times.
skin1235,
Apr 25, 12:13pm
put that 4x4 under the beam as a stud, and thats all you need, the joists are not resting on the top plate on that axis, the end wall where the joists sit will need more studs, or double up the top plate ( but that raises the bottom of the joists and leaves a gap you have to fill around all your existing walls, 6 of one half a dozen of the other, depends on how much of the existing finish you want to leave unaltered ( and not cost to remedy)
"Getting access to the outside of the office walls isn't that easy at the moment." lol, sabre saw will open jib like ripping a damp paper bag mate, slip a stud in the gap you've carefully cut just wide enough for the stud, over cut your stud so its tight vertical, a couple of skew nails through the face to the top and bottom plate and it will never move - pays to use 4x4, or 2 4x2 together for a support stud, ie beam on top, lay a strip of offcut gib down the face of the stud, a bit of plaster and you'd not even know you'd been in there, ie do it from the inside do it all the time, adding door and window headers and jacks, getting quite proficient ( efficient/effective, lol) with the plastering trowel now
skin1235,
Apr 25, 12:29pm
Dave, I have put support studs into walls, the method I use is quick clean and strong, inspectors have no problem with it
open the gib about 200 -300 wide where the 100 support stud is to go, remove all extraneous woods etc, nogs right through the middle etc, fit your stud, theres just enough room to get the paslode in to nail the stud in place now gib glue and screw a strip of anything down each side of your gib cuts, - don't take the screws right home) - often I screw through an offcut gib, then the old gib and then into the wood behind - means you can actually pull your gib into the copious glue you've applied and it will set in place well - leaving say 50mm of that strip exposed, cut gib to fit that gap, glue and screw to that strip - but don't take those screws right home either, again screw through an offcut laid on your gib patch, if you use that method you can take them home, only the offcut is damaged and you'll throw that away tomorrow, the middle of the gib piece is glued and screwed to your new stud tomorrow remove the screws holding the offcuts and your patch to the strips of wood behind the cut edges, apply plaster, finish as per normal, cannot be seen, the cut edges are supported by the glued strips inside and never move I know you're not going to have an inspector in, lol, but you also don't want the thing shaking about or collapsing, you have to ensure the floor above is supported properly, inspector or not
skin1235,
Apr 25, 12:41pm
ps, if an inspector 'arrives', he is going to want to see lateral bracing as well as vertical supports, that can be the existing wall of the shed, assumeing its lateral braced, and strip bracing on the outside of the exposed walls, a few bucks for a roll of 50mm strip brace is good for the peace of mind, yours and the inspector, when they collapse they don't drop like an elevator , they fold sideways, lateral bracing stops that
mrfxit,
Apr 25, 12:42pm
"outside office wall access".
Ummm it's open walls outside but theres a lot of gear stacked there at the moment & nowhere to put it just yet.
We had a bit of a miscalculation of warehouse size as in we "forgot" about the extra space the office takes up on floor space. Getting there but it takes time. The office roof/floor would help a LOT.
mrfxit,
Apr 25, 12:47pm
Yep understand that. This Q&A is probably about getting more of an understanding whats legal & having a far better understanding of what a builder is talking about for doing the job. I have a few basic understandings already but ideas & laws change all the time, then adding in the "is it worth it for what I get & what I can do with it" argument.
skin1235,
Apr 25, 12:47pm
ps again, is this for in the tardis, the above may be a bit of overkill, as I recall there won'y be a lot of room up there, ie it won't be a daily walking working floor, but suspect it will be storage and suspect that all such storage will achieve more and more mass as the days go along, maybe overkill could be underkill later ( when you've got 3 tonne of kit up there)
mrfxit,
Apr 25, 12:52pm
LOL yea it happens all to fast. Won't be too much heavy gear up there simply because it would be going up via a ladder. 5m stud on the office end, 6m on the back warehouse wall. Going to need pretty long legs to hit your head on the roof
krames,
Apr 25, 1:49pm
msg8 timber
mrfxit,
Apr 25, 2:26pm
SG8 . now Might be ok. SG12 Dry would be better but only if it's slightly dearer
sooby,
Apr 25, 11:18pm
Might pay to check the foundation under the wall is built to carry floor loads, I'm picking not.
Walls carrying floor loads need slab thickening under them, if not slab will fail and crack.
mrfxit,
Nov 20, 12:40pm
Industrial warehouse, should be fine I would think
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