Sound Proofing Bedroom From External Noise.

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gabbysnana, Jan 13, 6:58pm
you get adequate air under the door or door surrounds. We never died from the door being closed for 6 to 8 hours.

steve198, Jan 13, 7:14pm
Thanks, yes that's what I've gathered, I'll really have to take my time finding a suitably qualified person to do the job. It's definitely a niche thing.

lakeview3, Jan 13, 7:39pm
Double glazed window unit with laminated glass to the outside. Also cuts out 99% UV. You are welcome. 😎

apollo11, Jan 13, 7:41pm
You are a bit slow. OP already mentioned triple glazing.

tweake, Jan 13, 7:43pm
yor not going to die even if the door was 100% sealed anyway. even "air tight" homes leak enough air to breathe.

you normally get flow under the door because air can flow in/out of the walls.
you won't get air flowing out the door unless you have air flowing into the room.

as far as needing a separate return goes, some doors actually seal well enough (especially on carpet). the common trick is to trim the door a bit shorter. however that lets in sound from the rest of the house.
with a proper ducted return you can have "sound proofing" in the ducting so you don't get that noise.

stevo2, Jan 13, 8:08pm
^^ THIS^^ 100% agree. Soundproofing (properly) is not as easy as you would think. I'm a builder building large/upmarket homes and have dabbled with soundproofing but I certainly wouldn't be advising on here if you want results.
The job needs to be designed for your building and you need to give the designer a good brief on the result you require.
There are people that do just that and I would be getting one or more out for a site visit to give you advice.
I feel $10 to $15k should suffice and for that you will have a newly decorated room with any extras you may require like extra hotpoints etc. You will possibly lose some floor space because you will probably batten, insulate and gib over that again.
Once again the keyword is "EXPERT" Advice and be prepared to pay for it.
Cheers Stevo

lakeview3, Jan 13, 8:37pm
did anyone mention the laminate though?

lakeview3, Jan 13, 8:44pm

apollo11, Jan 13, 9:06pm
https://www.thermoglaz.co.nz/blog/pros-cons-of-double-glazing-vs-triple-glazing-windows/
"What you get with triple glazed windows is the same as the above, but with a third pane of glass. The third pane distinctly improves sound insulation and thermal insulation, because now you have two air gaps. If you combine this with high-quality glass and warm edge spacers, you have a very energy efficient window."

lakeview3, Jan 13, 10:55pm
page 17 on my link

We are looking at noise cancelling in this thread specifically not energy efficiency. However you will also find the laminate not only hard to break, it’s warm, quiet AND cuts out 99% uv. Plus it’s probably cheaper to get a double unit with that than a triple unit of toughened.

Give me laminated glass any day of the week (speaking from having it in TWO of my houses). Your diagram of the triple glaze shows the same unit as the double glaze but with 3 narrower glass sheets. I would rather have a double glaze unit with 2 lammy sheets or at least one lammy than 3 toughened glass. Common sense.

But hey what would I know right? Have you ever had a laminated glass double glaze unit? I have.

lakeview3, Jan 13, 10:57pm
Oh and get thermally broken aluminium frames and you won’t have the condensation problem.

apollo11, Jan 13, 11:11pm
Lol. If you knew anything about the design of double glazing, you'd know that it's the air gaps that provide the barrier to sound waves, as well as thermal radiation. But nice blustering.

lakeview3, Jan 13, 11:29pm
lol if you knew anything about laminated glass you would also recognise the value of the plastic inter layer.

Ultimately it depends on the budget. I doubt whether the OP would extend to triple glazing when he could get a similar and probably superior result from using a double glazed unit with laminated glass.

You go ahead though and carry on with your put downs based on your perception of my knowledge, it’s always hilarious.

Maybe the detailed graphs and actual scientific facts in my link were a bit TMI? I don’t make any apologies, all the info that OP needs about the glazing is there in my link. 😉

apollo11, Jan 13, 11:36pm
Yeah the thin layer of plastic does very little for sound proofing. I researched this a while back when I was doing house design. The thickness of the glass is much more important and then the air gaps between. The OP wants maximum noise dampening, triple glazing is superior in this respect. Do some research, it's on the internet.

lakeview3, Jan 13, 11:44pm
lol you didn’t read the info in my link did you? I don’t need to research thanks anyway, I have lived in a house (2 actually) with the actual product and have links to an acoustic engineer who works in the industry.

lakeview3, Jan 13, 11:50pm

apollo11, Jan 13, 11:51pm
"Laminated glass

The main purpose for laminated glass is to guard against high-wind environments where impact resistance is required. In some cases, however, laminated glass can offer a slight (around one point) STC improvement. "

lakeview3, Jan 13, 11:55pm
please quote your source. but 🤦♀️

https://www.metroglass.co.nz/catalogue/102.aspx

Concede for goodness sake! Lol.

Goodnight.

apollo11, Jan 14, 12:03am
OK, I concede that double glazing can be almost as good as triple glazing (where the IGU's are the same thickness), but the outer laminated glass is there for protection, and has marginal effect on sound absorption. It is the air gap, dis-similar glass thickness and total glass thickness that does this.

marte, Jan 14, 3:17am
Most sound absorption foam ii have seen & read about relies on using layers of different consistencies with one layer spreading the vibrations out flat so the other layers can absorb the vibrations.

So I think that a plastic layer on glass would have that same effect.

OP, ceilings & floor. Most, or as much, sound comes in thru the ceiling.

I had noisey neighbours in a block of flats once. Then one night with little sleep I hear breaking glass & yelling & decide to go investigate.
It turns out they were a bunch of young dairy workers & they go to work at 3-4 am, work 4 hrs, sleep untill afternoon shift at work, then 4 hrs & go home & drink/party/eat & crash untill work time.
The tenant had broken a door pane to get in when he left his keys at work.
Nice chaps, good explanation, made sense.

I slept very well after that, at night, knowing that they were just having fun.

marte, Jan 14, 3:22am
Oh, in my bedroom there was a fireplace, it's been taken out.
I lined the inside of that area with layers of polystyrene, gib board, closed cell foam, hard board & more gib board. Sealed the gaps.
The head of the bed fits nicely into this area & it has a layer of carpet on the wall as a headboard.
It's really really quiet in there.

tygertung, Jan 15, 8:17am
If one is getting up for work at 3am, surely one would just got to bed at 7 pm and get 8 hours of sleep in one go?!

martin11, Jan 15, 8:50am
We have standard alloy frames with double glazing and do not get a condensation problem .Look at the lifestyle and ventalation in the home its the main cause of condensation

tweake, Jan 15, 5:51pm
its not that simple.
the two main factors is outside temps and outside humidity.
then come all the other factors.

golfaholic2, Jan 27, 1:26pm
Inside humidity you mean ?