Current ceiling is fibre reinforced, but is sagging between 450mm joists and has cracked as not taped (1980). Screwed 20mm thk battens to existing joists and using 6m sheets (room is 8m x 6m) to reline. 10mm or 13mm gib? Any advice appreciated.
happychappy50,
Jun 10, 8:24am
What I have done in the past is clean out under the truss( where ceiling sheet is attached) & run a bead of liquid nails,before you do that I run 90x45 across the ceiling at 300 centres & @ right angles to the truss,run 100 mm bugle screws up through the timber into the bottoms of the truss,this will lift the sheet back into place,leave for a week to let glue dry,remove the timber & run screws along the bottoms of the truss as Insurance,plaster the repairs.
busybee72,
Jun 10, 8:28am
Great work, i can see that working, but my existing ceiling is heavily stippled and has awful plaster ceiling rose around each light. The non removable kind. Its a tear down or reline job. thanks
blueviking,
Jun 10, 8:34am
Agree with happychappy, I'd try and keep the fibrous. If you can't get into the criling space, or don't want to, you can drill little holes in the fibrous and squeeze glue in that way.
So when you screwed the battens on, did this flatten out the ceiling? Have you been up in the cavity to make sure it is the fibrous sagging. Went to a house recently where the ceiling was sagging, it wasn't the fibrous that was sagging, it was the actual timber bending.
busybee72,
Jun 10, 8:43am
As stated, the lining is sagging between joists. Lasered off the existing joists and they are true, and will pack out any inconsistacies with DPC under the new battens. 10mm or 13mm gib? Im not doing 3 passes and a topping run on stipple this bad.
happychappy50,
Jun 10, 8:48am
Do as I suggest between ceiling roses & finnish off with a stippled roller sleeve
stevo2,
Jun 10, 8:49am
If your battens are at 600mm centres (recommended) use 13mm gib. 10mm gib is for 400mm c/s and under. I recommend you space your battens at 600 rather than 400 if possible as you will get a truer ceiling.
busybee72,
Jun 10, 8:55am
Okay, so the liquid nails method assumes the gib has moved away from the joist? I can see how this repairs this. What i have is gib that is fully attached at the joist and the sag is between them. I have 18 little uniform humps looking down the ceiling. There is nothing to screw to in the ceiling. Please excuse my dumbness if ive got the wrong end of it.
busybee72,
Jun 10, 8:59am
Thanks Stevo, fewer fixing points equals straighter gib i guess. So modern 13mm gib fixed correctly wont sag?
happychappy50,
Jun 10, 9:05am
The timber on the outside will lift the complete ceiling to bring up to the bottoms of the joists which you have glued,the sag between joists has probably happened over time,you may have to close up the timber on the outside to compensate for that,if it is fiberous plaster is it wadded over the joists?
stevo2,
Nov 1, 4:11pm
Correct. 13mm at 600c/s is ideal. Fix your battens to existing joists and run a long straight edge or string line to check for sag. Then just fix your gib at right angles to the battens as per the Gib Site Guide available free at all Gib stockists. There's also a gib fixing app in the Google Play Store
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