Dear Trademe community, Two years ago I got gifted a feijoa tree. it was planted in an area which is a pain. We have since acquired more of the land next door. Does anyone know if we can dig it up and re-plant it. Any details would be helpful. Thanks
samanya,
Feb 1, 7:13pm
In North Canterbury I shifted four 5 year old Feijoa trees ( about 1.5+) last winter & made sure I kept them well watered & they are thriving & laden with blossoms right now. I'd leave it until cooler weather, though & maybe give it a trim. Good luck.
junie2,
Feb 1, 7:56pm
I'm with this. In Chch ( not far from Samanya ) I transplanted in winter too, and all is well.
russell.s.c,
Feb 1, 8:21pm
If you're really concerned take some cuttings and start a few to replace it if the worst happens. If you follow the advice samanya I believe you will have a very high chance of success. Almost a harder job to stop them growing.
autumnwinds,
Feb 2, 12:36am
Absolutely agree with Sam's advice - leave it to at least April-May, plenty of water before and after shifting.
The one thing you could do, in the next couple of months, - and ONLY if you can keep it well-watered - is cut a trenching-spade depth (that's a longer, narrower, spade) down, all around the plant, about 40 - 50 cm out from the trunk.
It's not strictly necessary, but does help the plant start growing new small feeder roots, that gives it an even better chance of spurting ahead when they are shifted (well, I've always found it helpful, with any fruit or other tree that needs shifting. )
issymae,
Feb 2, 10:56am
will they grow from cuttings
autumnwinds,
Feb 2, 1:43pm
sorry, wrong thread. deleted that
Feijoas can strike from cuttings, but not very reliable, I've found. Worth a try, a bit later on, if you have one that produces a monster fruit.
cameron-albany,
Feb 2, 7:10pm
I moved a couple. They were only quite small though and it wasn't the most ideal time of year BUT they seem to be doing ok. Agree that doing it in early winter is best. Also, if it's a reasonable sized tree you could consider doing what's known as 'trenching' where you dig a spade-depth trench around the root ball of the tree (usually the extent of where the edge of the leaves are) and then backfill with loose soil and compost, several months before you move it. This means that the tree will send out new little feeder roots which will help it when you transplant it. Just google 'trenching' and 'transplanting' and you'll get the idea.
colin433,
Jan 1, 5:07pm
The one thing you could do, in the next couple of months, - and ONLY if you can keep it well-watered - is cut a trenching-spade depth (that's a longer, narrower, spade) down, all around the plant, about 40 - 50 cm out from the trunk.
better to do only half, let the cut roots start to make new growth, then do the other half. However, I think they must take a while to start producing roots very far from the trunk. We gave away a tree that had been in for about three years, It had been planted in a large wooden framework so it was easy to knock the framework apart, but there was not a root to be seen. We wrapped it in a large piece of sacking and the guy took it away and planted it. I haven't heard how it's going, but as long as he kept it watered it should be ok, and had tiny fruit on it when he took it.
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