Not sure id be confident enough putting cable in. If it was open walls maybe but not existing outlets or new ones behind walls.
toymit,
Jan 14, 8:23am
You usually just tape the new cables to the old ones from the socket/plug outlet end, then climb up into your roof space and pull it through.
christin,
Jan 14, 10:41am
what size cable should i ask for. ? what difference does it make?
marte,
Jan 14, 6:00pm
christin wrote: what size cable should i ask for. ? what difference does it make?[/quote
That's stuff you will have to ask the electrician about when you get a quote. If (s)he is doing the job all themselves, its not something to worry about.
_atomant_,
Jan 14, 6:06pm
This is rubbish, you cannot connect 1mm cable to a 15 mcb as its not rated that high and then you get to de-rate it and it gets even further away from ok. NO sparkies I know use m10 or red shed gear and just imagine trying to get an SDOC for it? As long as you use a company that is either well known or mid to large size you should be fine. They WILL issue you with a COC at job completion even though Russ is technically correct as in very few cases it isn't needed. They will factor the cost of the COC into the quote. Get 3 quotes and remember you get what you pay for. And yes I am one.
_atomant_,
Jan 14, 6:10pm
Not quite that simple, if you do this and it gets stuck you run the risk of it pulling apart and then having NO cable in the wall, we strip both tails and wind them together and then tape over the join to ensure we don't lose them. Tricks of the trade is why you get the professionals in.
ryanm2,
Jan 14, 6:25pm
Plenty of sparkies use gear from M10 , its cheap and nasty but the customer often doesn't know the difference. Trade on a PDL 692 is now $38 odd, whats an Arlec or Elto double power point worth these days from M10 or Bunnings?
christin,
Jan 14, 6:28pm
Just trying to be informd and understand when they tell me. Ie above says 1.5 or 2.5mm but what ismthe difference apart from size, and is it worth paying for the bigger type of thing.
I was also maybe going to say which one i wanted, so everyone quoted that so comparing like with like
ryanm2,
Jan 14, 6:28pm
$72 for a pack of 10 'Deta' power points including GST, minus whatever if you have an account at Bunnings. I dont use the stuff but people certainly do and the price point is why.
ryanm2,
Jan 14, 6:31pm
If you trust your tradesmen then let them choose the best way to do it. As long as the cable is rated to the correct mcb you have nothing to worry about.
Generally 2.5mm for general power, 1mm for lighting, (some use 1.5mm for lighting).
trade4us2,
Jan 14, 6:35pm
When I last looked there were two NZ companies making approved cable. Mitre10 was selling General Cable wire about 4 times cheaper than electricians like to charge. The 2.5 cable doesn't cost much more than the 1.5 so get them to use 2.5 T&E. My electrician wired my power points with 1.5 cable without asking me.
christin,
Jan 14, 6:55pm
Thanks
Why is 1.5 worse on powerpoints than 2.5?
As for truating tradesman, i wont really know at quote stage. So more info and understandinf what they may say is good :-)
trade4us2,
Jan 14, 7:02pm
1.5 T&E cable will heat more than 2.5 T&E. These days people have lots of appliances and electrical engineers would not recommend using 1.5 for power points.
ryanm2,
Jan 14, 7:03pm
1.5 is no worse or better. As long as its protected at the switchboard by the correctly rated mcb then you have nothing to worry about. Large houses may have 4mm to some power circuits, depends on a variety of factors.
ryanm2,
Jan 14, 7:06pm
These days people have lots of chargers and electronic appliances to plug in which draw very little current, however modern insulation has certainly had an effect on requirements.
christin,
Jan 14, 7:07pm
Thanks :-).
Knowing a bit more also means they wont think im some gullible female lol
trade4us2,
Jan 14, 8:14pm
When you are running your electric jug and toaster and breadmaker and coffee machine all at the same time off a 1.5 T&E circuit, there might be a voltage drop that makes the appliances work less well.
christin,
Jan 14, 8:36pm
Thanks. :-)
(Although i use a toaster about three times a year, jug once a week ans the rest never lol, but yeah i now know what you mean :-) )
pauldw,
Jan 14, 9:23pm
What will make those appliances work less well on a 1.5 circuit would be the circuit breaker tripping.
macman26,
Jan 14, 10:34pm
I fairly sure now power circuits need to be wired in 2.5 minimum. Asnzs 3000. I come from Australia and never been allowed to use anything less than 2.5 on power circuits since the 80's when I started working as a Sparky. You were allowed in NZ until a few years ago but I think it was a maximum of two power points per circuit. Also most cabling now is subject to derating due to insulation so max circuit protection would be 16A
elect70,
Jan 14, 10:52pm
^^^^ We were told it was Ok by a inspector on a saftey renewal course in 2003 provided correct size breaker used . first houses I did were stat e houses 2 to a fuse 7/029 sq inch (2.5 eq today ) & 9 lights to a fuse 1/044 sq inch (1mm) . no horizontal wiring all boxes back fixed to dwangs all fully clipped every 9 inches ( they used to measure it sometimes ) I often see sparky vans at M10 mega on monday mornings getting fresh stock .
trade4us2,
Jan 14, 11:43pm
Funnily enough the 16 amp breakers have never tripped. The breaker that has tripped supplies the bathroom heater and clothes dryer. There's no 2.5 circuits in my house. Even the 3kw hot water cylinder is 1.5 T&E. The electrical inspector checked and approved all of it.
tintop,
Jun 12, 4:08am
I need some changes made at our place too.
I contacted the local electrical inspector and discussed every thing with him at the house. I was able to get independent advice and am now better able to discuss details with a sparkie .
Just a thought - it may be useful in your case.
Since the public registrations are closed, you must have an invite from a current member to be able to register and post in this thread.
Have an account? Login here.