This is why I like this message board, fantastic advice from johotech.
kaddiew,
Apr 17, 7:50am
Thank you SO much for taking the time to give me all this excellent advice.
Just checked and unfortunately there's only about 1cm of deck overhang left after the builder twice sawed some off to try to achieve a straight edge. Damn, I wish I'd posted here before he did that.
I really do appreciate everyone's input. Thanks again!
stevo2,
Apr 17, 7:53am
Pictures 2 and 3 looks like over 1mt drop. That deck needs a handrail.
happychappy50,
Apr 17, 8:12am
Most softwood will warp as it is still Immature(green),also joist spacings are a bit further apart for my liking 350 centres are more the go & as most have suggested screws rather than nails,to help the distortion(twisting) think of the timber something that was growing & occasionally requires some help,I use boiled linseed oli & turps,the oil helps the timber & the turps will assist in drawing it in.The uv Rays are extremely high here so you need to help it 10 - 1 is ok,very cheap & much more effective than a lot of coatings on the market.Have used this recipe for yrs n yrs.
johotech,
Apr 17, 8:59am
Ok well you could still screw them on the edge joist. Put the screws outside the nails, angled a little.
It looks like the deck is made out of single lengths with no joints? One thing done right anyway. But it looks like there were some very wet timber and some much drier when it was fitted?
Often those severely twisted pieces that can be seen in the second photo, is caused by using the decking right up to the end of the length without trimming a decent amount off.
The only way to fix those would be to replace the bent sections, with better pieces of decking out of the middle of a length. Either replace part of the length (at least over 5-6 joists), which would mean a join, or replace the full length.
vandewc,
Apr 17, 9:28am
Normally hardwoods are used at 20mm. Pine is usually 32mm. Joists are spaced at 400crs for 20mm decking and 600crs for 32mm decking. The fact you have 20mm Pine at 400crs is probably why you feel the decking moving under your feet. Staining or oiling is personal choice
kaddiew,
Apr 17, 11:05am
Thanks for this. I'll find someone to put screws on the edge joist etc as you suggested, and see how that goes.
All but 3 of the planks are single lengths, but yes, it was definitely a mix of very wet and drier lengths used - the 3 closest to the fence are still quite green looking.
I suggested the bent sections be cut out or the whole lengths replaced but it wasn't well received.
Thanks also, to happychappy50 and vandewc - I've learned a lot !
trade4us2,
Apr 17, 11:03pm
Use stainless steel screws with a square hole in the head. They are not expensive these day.
thistle4,
Apr 17, 11:13pm
Nowhere near a mtr. From the deck to the stone path is around 6", from the deck to the stream is less than 2'. It's just the way I took the pics I think.
stevo2,
Apr 18, 4:45am
Ok, my bad sorry
toymit,
Apr 18, 8:53pm
I would probably just replace the munted ones. Looks like 2 or 3 as suggest in #30.
toymit,
Apr 18, 9:06pm
Probably thought the cat was a great dane.
tintop,
Apr 18, 9:33pm
There are also special 'deck screws', square drive, steep countersink ( similar to the nails) are galvanised but with an additional coating for use with treated timber.
buddytom,
Apr 18, 10:08pm
Again ,what great job of work, shows there is a lot of pride in a job well done
kaddiew,
Apr 18, 10:12pm
It may yet come to that, thanks. Even then I'm still stuck with every single board being cupped/curved so that I'm walking on uneven raised edges. That may be common, but I've never struck it before with the several decks/houses I've owned.
kaddiew,
Apr 18, 10:12pm
Noted, thank you!
ksam,
Jan 31, 7:09pm
When you have a bank account as healthy as Mr Key, you pay someone else to swing a hammer.
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