Any F&P Smartdrive experts here?

Have an old 703 here, that won't spin up full speed.It starts spinning up, then slows down, and tries again with same result.
The OOB switch seems ok, the drain pump seems okay/fast.
It is not generating a diagnostic fault code - but seems to be entering diagnostic mode without beeping twice - so not sure it's even getting to diagnostic mode. Holding wash temp down and power, all LEDS light, then after 5 seconds, the spin "hold" and "low" are lit, but no beeps.None of the top LEDs are on when it's in that mode.

I once fixed a similar model. There's supposed to be a spring on the left that holds the bowl away from an out-of-balance switch on the right. The spring had broken. A new spring fixed it.
The top unscrews giving access to the spring and switch. The edges of the metal around the top are very sharp so don't cut yourself like I did.

Work on these all the time. It should be beeping and displaying an error code after trying to get up to speed several times and giving up. Turn power on at wall, wait for all lights to go out. Press and hold wash temp.down and power buttons. You should hear 2 beeps. Press spin speed up until slow & hold are lit. Is there any lights on along the top row! Then press spin up button 1 more time & medium spin light will be on. In that mode you can check lid switch & OOB switch. Lid open - 2nd wash light from left will come on & go off when lid closed. 4th wash light from left will come on & go off each time you activate the OOB switch.

Thanks.The OOB switch is okay, normally closed contacts, lever is aligned properly etc.It isn't that.I just removed/refitted the drain pump, no blockages etc.

It's not finishing the final spin cycle or giving up - just stuck in a loop of trying to spin up, then slowing down, then trying to spin up again.

It's not entering diagnostic mode properly as above.Wash temp down and power buttons, all LEDs light up for about 5 seconds, then (IIRC) I should get the two confirmation beeps, but it doesn't beep at all.But spin hold and low are then lit - and water level high and low are lit.No LEDs on in top row.
If I cycle spin button up so that medium spin light is on, opening the lid or operating the out of balance switch doesn't light either of the LEDs.So I don't think it's actually in diagnostic mode at all.

Rotor area is clean, dry, no seepage.I replaced seals and bearings a few years ago, after seepage caused the rotor position sensor to die.Don't think it's that again.

I'm stumped.I suspect it's the motor controller board, but no way of testing except replacement.

Both of you clearly know more than me, but I'd be shorting out the OOB switch and seeing if that fixes it.

I just found the service manual on line.This model (703) is a "phase 3" model series, I got it into the diagnostic mode to check lid switch etc (there's a slightly different method to enter this mode with this model) - and all ok, even though it didn't give me the initial "two beep" diagnostic mode confirmation beeps, I can even activate solenoids etc.So it seems to go into diagnostic mode (except for the beeps), but no faults displayed.
It's now showing another symptom when trying to spin, purging the cold solenoid for 1/2 second or so occasionally.It's mentioned in the manual that these early "phase 1 - 4" models have water cooled components in the motor controller board, and this purging may occur if these components are overheating.
I'm more confident (but still not 100% sure) that the motor controller board is borked.It's an old machine (20 years), not sure if I can be bothered replacing the board at $130 or so if I'm not certain that will fix it.

Yes sounds like the control board is the fault. Check on TM under washing machines. There are often listings for controller boards but can be risky if seller doesn't offer any warranty. The early model SD had an aluminium cooling chamber which corrodes & leaks after a few years of use.

Thanks. I've decided that it is worth fixing - again - and have ordered a board. The recond boards on TM are expensive - there are better places to get them. There won't be a lot left of the original machine by the time that board is in.Of the things which commonly go wrong, this board is about the only thing which I haven't already done - so it lasted 20 years.I have very mixed feelings about F&P, their unwillingness to disclose fault codes to "DIYers" doesn't suit me.OTOH this machine did not have any faults at all in the first 12 years of heavy use, which is pretty good.A new one of the same capacity is about $1200.I think we paid about $1200 for this machine back in '93.

Well that was fun (not).One of those days.I received the replacement recond board 12 hours after ordering it on flEabay, for 30% below local price including freight.Now that's service.
Go to check stator, pump, and solenoid resistances, and my $9 digital multimeter dies, oops.Drive across town and buy a brand spanking new one, I splash out $18 - it has to be twice as good as that last piece of unreliable crap.Get home, and it all checks out good.Load the new board, program in the capacity.Go to run the damned thing, and it's worse than before - but this time it does throw a fault code, rotor position sensor (130).Ok, time to either give up or get stuck in to the blardy thing.Rip the rotor off, the board all looks good, give the sensor connectors a good clean, whack it back together.Now it won't spin, hmmm. re-check diagnostic on lid and OOB sensor, seems okay. but wait - the lid switch didn't work one time, very odd. disconnect and check with new $18 multimeter - and it works. sometimes.Have to get lid off machine - whoops, the 20 YO screws are rusted solid - cant get a bite on them with anything.Try to slot them with a dremel (fail).Drill the b@stards out in the end, all this takes an hour or so.Too late to get a new reed switch - dammit - snip the leads and short them, fire the machine up.Won't spin - baaah - my fault this time, had pulled a lead out of the OOB switch.Wife comes home and asks what's for dinner, sees courier packet for new board, and asks if I've fixed the blardy washing machine yet.
End of story (I freaking well hope) is that the control board was borked, the lid switch had an intermittent fault, the rotor position sensor fault was probably random, or could have been from me bumping the wires when I checked pump resistance.The machine has just completed a full cycle.But tomorrow I've still got to drive across town to pick up a new lid switch.

End to the story, I drove to F&P parts to get a lid switch - they wanted over $50 for it. I gently pushed it back over the counter, laughing.It's just a n/o magnetic reed switch.Picked one up at an electronic component shop on the way home for $2.00.All fixed - perfect.