I now know I should've checked what timber the builder would use to replace & slightly enlarge an old small deck that is my main access to the outside. HUGE lesson learned.
As you can see it's only 20mm thick pine, and the pics say it all. I'm constantly aware of how shoddy it looks and feels underfoot. The builder is adamant it's fine.
I was told to leave it unstained, but I'm wondering if staining it would at least protect the timber, if nothing else? Would appreciate any suggestions.
400mm between each row of nails; but 450mm to the last row before the raw edge. I asked to have that raw edge capped somehow, but instead it has twice been sawn off to straighten up, then quickly becomes uneven again.
Thanks.
kenw1,
Apr 16, 7:46pm
What size are the joists? It sounds like it is a typical just good enough job.
kaddiew,
Apr 16, 8:11pm
Hard to see to measure, but does 800mm x 500-550mm sound about right?
Every board is curved, so I'm walking on the raised edges, which is annoying, BUT my fault for not doing my homework about suitable decking boards to begin with.
So. would staining it be worth doing, or not? Thanks.
thistle4,
Apr 16, 8:43pm
Our new deck has the joists 500mm apart and the decking boards are 50mm fence palings. Very pleased with it, still as flat as the day the boards went down. We haven't stained the deck as we want the weathered wood look. My husband drilled every nail hole, a labour of love. lol
We aren't deck experts but a builder friend gave us advice and I think his advice was great.
kenw1,
Apr 16, 9:16pm
That is a nice looking deck, how thick are the palings?
annies3,
Apr 16, 9:17pm
Maybe your timber was wet when it was used should have been dry H3/4 treated, if pine, not necessary to paint it if it is treated, you may notice a greenish tinge to treated timber. It certainly looks un finished without the cap over the end which would help to keep it straight as well. Who was the builder ?
thistle4,
Apr 16, 9:22pm
They're 50mm thick from memory. Very substantial.
koru67,
Apr 16, 9:22pm
Our deck is 20mm "premium" pine (according to the invoice), been down 7 years and absolutely no problems. However our builder has done a fantastic job, very professional. Is your issue caused by the timber, workmanship or both?.
koru67,
Apr 16, 9:24pm
Very nice thistle. Glad to see one of your many cats helping you take the photo.
thistle4,
Apr 16, 9:25pm
Lol, the cats spend a lot of time on and around that deck, no idea why.
kaddiew,
Apr 16, 9:44pm
Yes it's treated. Re capping it - that was my thought too, but was told not possible. I've had no problems with the builder's work in previous years, and I don't wish to name him. : )
My question was whether or not it needs staining, and it appears it's not crucial.
kaddiew,
Apr 16, 9:50pm
Interesting. Mine's apparently "premium" 20mm pine, too. It began twisting and warping within the first few months. It's now approx 18 months old. I've approached it as a timber only issue.
tigra,
Apr 16, 9:50pm
It really depends on whether you like the "Weathered" look or prefer a "finished " deck
pauldw,
Apr 16, 9:52pm
Did you mean fence railing? 100×50 is heavier than normal decking. You'd only need to drill it if John Key was on the hammer with you.
kaddiew,
Apr 16, 9:54pm
So there's no actual benefit to the timber to have it stained. Thanks! : )
thistle4,
Apr 16, 9:55pm
I always thought rails were horizontal and palings were vertical. The nails were drilled, so that there was no chance of any rising a little and injuring bare feet. Makes for a neater finish too.
wembley1,
Apr 16, 9:56pm
Retaining wall "paling"?
zak410,
Apr 16, 10:01pm
I think 20mm pine would benefit from a penetrating oil, but nothing too dark as it would absorb the heat more.
Great, thanks for the article. Written for decking dummies, so the right level for me. : )
thistle4,
Apr 16, 10:24pm
The joists are retaining wall palings I think.
johotech,
Apr 17, 1:41am
By the look of the tight knots, it is premium. But it's only 20mm which twists more than the thicker decking.
What I would do, is get another piece of the joist timber (looks like 75x50 H3.2 fence rail), and screw it to the side of the end joist with purlin screws. Hopefully your decking is still long enough to cover that?
Then wet the decking with a hose 3 or 4 times a day, for a couple of days, to soften and possibly straighten the timber.
Then screw the decking to the new joist with 10g x 65 CSK surefix screws. Preferably stainless. Best to predrill first (4mm drill), because you will be quite close to the end of the timber by now. Try and screw in a straight line, unlike your builders nail lines. 2 screws per board, 15-20mm from the edge.
After that you can trim the decking flush with the side of the joist if you want (maybe wait a week or so until it dries & shrinks).
You can also nail or screw another piece of decking on the side of the joist, flush with the top of the decking, to finish the edge.
Screwing the ends will help stop the twisting of the decking, but in reality, there is little you can do. The timber was part of a growing tree not that long ago. It will expand and contract when it is wet or dry, and it will still try to twist and the splits will open and close with the weather. The bigger the timber and the better it is secured, the less this will happen.
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