Do you have a technique for folding down the soft metal attached to the rolltop . I just seem to be playing wackamole even on a sunny day ,TIA
mechnificent,
Jan 1, 3:44pm
Yup. Wait for a nice sunny day (yeah yeah I know it's too hot), and then do it. And use the rubber end of your eastwing hammer to gently work it down.
It tears easy if it's not hot, or if you try to bend too much at a time.
mechnificent,
Jan 1, 3:47pm
You tap it gently.
mechnificent,
Jan 1, 4:18pm
Just thought too. If it's a little gap under it that you can't close up, that's inevitable. If the pitch is ok and you have a little turn-up at the top of the iron it won't leak. Not unless you are in a high wind situation. in which case you should have more turn-up or wider flashings.
The air gap under the ridge capping should let a little water getting up there separate out from the air flow and the water should drain away. Same as the air gap/channels in window joinery. A little gap is better to have than tears.
bergkamp,
Jan 1, 4:25pm
yup agree with all that . I didn't know it was less susceptible to tearing when hot ,roof is dark so I will wait for super hot day ,thx
stevo2,
Jan 1, 5:11pm
Also helps if you can use something like an extra hammer handle to hold down the trough you have just done.
mechnificent,
Jan 1, 5:21pm
That's a good idea. Haven't heard of that.
nzshooter01,
Jan 2, 8:04pm
I presume you know to know to flattern it out before you place it on the roof?
bergkamp,
Jan 2, 8:59pm
i fold it sharply with my hands . is there more to it?
mechnificent,
Jan 2, 9:07pm
I think he's wondering if you forgot to fold it out. And sharply with your hands is the way alright. So it bends tightly against the iron. and you get it as wide as possible. You've done it right,, just need a nice hot day to get up there and get cooked now.
tegretol,
Jan 3, 1:46pm
Make sure there is a slight turn up on the top edge of the roof iron valleys - even if rain drives up there it won't ingress the building and a bit of a gap in the flashing won't matter. Shame they don't still make the lead flashing ones - this new plastic stuff is crap - thankyou gweenies!
mechnificent,
Jan 3, 1:51pm
I think the new "lead" is because real lead reacts with coloursteel in some way. And ya gotta have coloursteel.
clangie,
Jan 3, 10:18pm
all sheets should be turned up 20mm + under the ridges etc
nzshooter01,
Jan 4, 7:39am
Plastic? Stuff we have down here is aluminiumn, Yes the old lead stuff reacts with zincalumn, also you shouldnt write on zincalumn with a lead pencil,
mechnificent,
Jan 4, 8:39am
Is that "lead" on coloursteel, aluminum based is it ? Didn't know that. Didn't know what it is.
budgel,
Jan 4, 10:24am
The last lot I used was a perforated aluminium foil with a bituminous underside.
mechnificent,
Jan 4, 12:00pm
Oh, that sounds different to what I've had. Live and learn.
mrgts4,
Aug 28, 6:12pm
You are using aluminium soft edge, it is just a thin strip of aluminium. You just have to persevere with your hammer but hold the previous bit you knocked down. We only use flash guard, it costs a bit more but is a lot easier to install.
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