Fluorescent lights, question ?

kevlight, Jul 21, 7:27pm
https://trademe.tmcdn.co.nz/photoserver/full/837580057.jpg what is this item and what does it do ? https://trademe.tmcdn.co.nz/photoserver/full/837580522.jpg
replacing old lights with newer later model ones of similar type
,

tweake, Jul 21, 7:48pm
i think thats a dual capacitor used for noise suppression.
tho it may be a inductor capacitor. not something i have used.

if your replacing the old lights, good time to upgrade to electronic ballast with PFC.

johotech, Jul 21, 8:08pm
Or LED batten.
My wholesaler doesn't even sell fluro fittings anymore.

kevlight, Jul 21, 8:16pm
okey doky, will do a LED up date ,thanks do i under stand ,correctly that, no ballast needed, with latest LED battens ?

mack77, Jul 21, 8:45pm
Those photos show a dual ceramic capacitor whose function is to suppress radio frequency interference.

mack77, Jul 21, 8:51pm
Yes this is basically correct since the current in an LED (light emitting diode) is limited by the inbuilt electronics contained in the LED batten. They also do not require a power factor correction capacitor (PFC), that is required to be fitted to fluorescent fittings that have magnetic ballasts.

johotech, Jul 21, 8:57pm
You can probably buy fluros from the big sheds. But in my experience, the newer fluros with electronic ballasts don't last as long as the old ones. I've had quite a few fail within a couple of years.

The LEDs will be more expensive, and if I were you, I'd try and get the standard ones from an electrical wholesaler. Some of the slim LED ones from the sheds are a nightmare to install.

woody89, Jul 21, 9:08pm
I know nothing about which bits of a florescent tube cause issues but worth taking advice (which I'm sure will be go to LED). After a massive shed fire, caused by an old tube we have rebuilt & used LED & changed over the others in other buildings. Until our fire, we were completely unaware of the potential for catastrophe. It can't be that unusual as the was a similar fire in a commercial building near by that started the same way.

tweake, Jul 21, 9:16pm
you do actually want PFC on led lights (or electronic ballast fluro).
some led drivers can be really crap.

mrfxit, Jul 21, 9:32pm
Looked in to getting a couple of 1m LED lights about 3 years ago & they were around $250 each for single "tubes"

johotech, Jul 21, 9:38pm
A 1.5m 60W should be around $100 now. There are cheap ones at the big sheds. I installed some that were $50 recently. They worked when I turned them on, and the customer liked them. But they weren't a good straight replacement for your average fluro. The ones I normally use are Halcyon 60W, 4000K, 6600lm.

tegretol, Jul 22, 12:10pm
LED battens from M10 4 feet $60 ea.

tweake, Jul 22, 12:16pm
trying to get ones that give the same light as the original fluro's seams to be an issue. what led battens are available that match a 2x58w fluro ?

johotech, Jul 22, 12:30pm
A 58W fluro is around 4,500-5000 lumens when new. I would normally replace them with the 6600lm LEDs I mentioned above.

Fluro's degrade in their light output. LEDs shouldn't as much.
If you haven't got enough light, they might need to be closer together.

tweake, Jul 22, 12:37pm
buts thats only 1x58w fluro not 2x58w.
it means i would have to get two led battens to replace the one fluro batten.

harm_less, Jul 22, 1:48pm
We had an 'Atom' 70W weatherproof LED batten fitted above a workshop bench. $105 (possibly trade) and easily enough light for a work area.
https://www.globelink.co.nz/products/lighting/atom-70w-weatherproof-basic-led-batten-cw-ip65/

Also LEDs differ in quality = 'you get what you pay for'.

We're currently replacing blown 'cheap' LED globes purchased about 12 months back from a budget lighting chain with Philips ones from a reputable electrical wholesaler. We're rural so have a 'dirty' power supply with voltage fluctuations which kills LEDs, particularly low quality ones. Wholesaler recommended Philips or Osram.

kevlight, Jul 22, 6:44pm
thanks for the advice and help .
while we have our LIGHTS hat's on
there are three (3) double batton fluro lights in the kitchen
i have just replaced the old ,damaged , brittle ,filthy Fluros ,with later model ones of similar type.
. the buzzing humming noise has gone along with the subliminal flicker.
Thank goodness for that.
. Do not know why we put up with such poor lighting for so long .
Have a cheap original (interesting) way of lighting up back shed /garage. will post photos next week end if it works . other wise. zzzzttttzap
.

johotech, Jul 22, 7:05pm
Yes I was going to go into that detail. but I was also going to mention that while the fluro will degrade to a lower light level, the LED shouldn't.

I've just checked some at my place.
Checking single fittings, 2.4m ceiling, measuring at approximately waist height.
A twin 58W without a reflector (light coloured ceiling) - around 800-1000 lux
A twin 58W with a reflector - around 1100-1400 lux
The Halcyon LED fitting as I said above, which is a few years old and had a lot of use - around 1200-1300 lux.

So my opinion is (and what I usually do for clients) is that the 1500mm LEDs do directly replace a double 5' fluro.

There's also a 1200mm version ;)

tweake, Jul 24, 12:36pm
its very good to see real world testing. thank you for that.

so roughly 120 watts of fluro equals 60 watts of led.
is your fluro electronic driver PFC or mag ballast ? as electronic PFC gives out a bit more light.
i tend to forget that led is directional and fluro requires reflectors which loose a bit.
but led is about double the price of fluro (from the price i can find)
so for a commercial setup where they would have tons of fluro's running constantly, led would be well worth it.
but for small scale or small usage like my garage, fluro is cheaper.

bill1451, Jul 28, 9:45pm
first generation of LED tubes were crap, did a commercial building with 38 fittings in it, 2010, within 6 months, 6 tubes had sectionalised, that is portions of the tube went dead, probably a dry joint.

tweake, Oct 14, 3:40pm
more commonly is dead a led. they are often done in rows, one led in the row dies causes the whole row to stop working.