Painting an internal door with grooves

tahnasha, May 3, 3:59am
I'm just about to paint my internal doors which have grooves in them similar to this door in the link. I'm using Resene waterbased enamel. So if I cut in where the grooves are, and then roller the rest of the doors, how do I stop the brush marks showing? And should I use a fluffy or sponge type roller? Thanks.

http://www.jgdoors.co.nz/images/grooved-doors.jpg

johotech, May 3, 4:07am
If you quickly paint the grooves first (should only take 30sec-1min at most), then roll straight away, you won't get any brush marks.

As for the type of roller, check what they recommend for the type and gloss level of paint you are using. Select the roller for the flat surface, disregard the grooves (so definitely not a really fluffy type, to try and get in the grooves).

For rollers and brushes, you get what you pay for! Don't scrimp on them, select professional type and look after them properly and they will last you years. Don't listen to anyone that says you can stick them in the fridge or freezer overnight, or wrap them in plastic for hours, then expect them to work well when you go to use them. That really annoys me - totally lazy.

Buy a roller cleaner and spin dryer. Clean brushes as soon as you have finished with them. The roller spinner will also spin brushes.

jkp58, May 3, 4:10am
I take it a repaint? Get some hot weather thinners it extends the dry time of the paint.You have to work very fast brush top half of the grooves then roll that section quickly repeat the same for bottom half then roll top to bottom whole door job done. second coat just roll top to boottom hope this helps

jkp58, May 3, 4:18am
I been wrapping my rollers in plastice for 30 plus years it works very well if done properly. Saves the enviroment (re used bags)

tahnasha, May 3, 4:31am
Cool thanks. I must admit I'm guilty of the wrapping the brush in gladwrap and leave for a week and go back to paint type. I also wrap my roller container in tin foil so I don't have to wash it.

My other question is, I'm getting new laminated planks installed in a few weeks, he's going to undercut the plasterboard so I have plenty of expansion gap, so I need to take the skirtings off, which I'm going to number and paint before they go back on. So I get a sharp knife and score along between the skirting and wall and then a crowbar to remove? I have a crowbar but it looks too thick to get in between the skirting and the wall? Or should I use something else? Thanks

P.S. I'm trying to do all this with no input from my husband LOL, to prove that I can do it by myself because he always whinges that I start things and he always has to finish them off for me.

jkp58, May 3, 4:37am
DO use the knife to cut along top of the skirting. A chisel or screw driver and have a small flat board behind so you dont damage the gib

johotech, May 3, 4:40am
Use one like this:
http://www.mitre10.co.nz/shop/handtools/chisels_bars/stanley_wonder_bar_300mm_249054/ But depending what they are made of and how they are nailed, it might be impossible to get them off without breaking them.
If you manage to get them off, pull the nails through the back, with something like this.
http://www.mitre10.co.nz/shop/handtools/pliers_wrenches_cutters/fuller_pro_end_nipper_pliers_200mm_253269/

They will be going back on higher, because of the flooring. You might need to use no-more-gaps or similar along the top before repainting. If your walls are the same colour, you should be able to touch up.

But don't be surprised if they don't come off easily and or break. Try not to damage the wallboard of course.

New skirting isn't expensive, but the fitting is time consuming.

jkp58, May 3, 4:44am
Also remove nails use new ones when you put the skirting back on. You may want to sand and paint before you put them on. Use alite weight filler such as rapid filler to fill holes easier to sand. then you can just put one top coat on to make easy cutting in to the new boards

tahnasha, Jan 19, 4:12pm
OK thanks for all that info, much appreciated.