Never build up over a join thinking it will shrink. Someone told us to do this and we were sanding back FOREVER!
mtbotrev,
Jul 16, 8:14pm
Im about to paint ensuite now that plastering has been done. I wil use the correct oil based Resene sealant but Im unclear as to whether I sand that lightly one done before applying two coats of kitchen and bathgroom paint Im using. I had heard gib sheet other than plaster areas shouldnt be sanded as it raises te epaper and gives that grainy look. Im trying for as smooth a finish as possible. may need to use a different roller as well?
None gib related . does a new cavity door need to eb sealed first before painting. Door end looks like it needs it but door sides are coloued and very smooth already. Are they generally sold pre sealed?
johotech,
Jul 16, 8:36pm
Mtbotrev. Here's my tips, for what they are worth. A light sand of the pigmented sealer is all that's required, just to take off any nibs of dust or whatever. Should only take 5min to do a small room. Be careful not to sand too much on edges. Sanding won't raise the gib paper once it is sealed. A short nap roller for the oil based sealer.
A coat of acrylic undercoat after the sealer will help coverage. Might save you having to do 3 top coats, if you look at 2 coats and think it is a bit patchy. Depends on your top coat colour of course.
For the doors, the edges aren't sealed. I usually sand, and then brush door edges with two coats of undercoat with a light sand in between before top coating. Once again, be careful sanding on the corners.
Getting a good smooth finish on doors isn't easy.
jezabeel,
Jul 16, 8:41pm
Of course you need to use a roller, and not cheap crappy ones. The oil based sealer will definitely need sanded, all over. The surface around the plaster joins will be particularly rough. I would use 150-180 grit sandpaper, depending on how rough it is. Did the builder seal the bottom and top edge of door before instalation?
mtbotrev,
Jul 17, 12:02am
Cheers johotech and jezabeel. so the sealer will protect the gib from any fine bits of paper lifting and affecting the rollered finsh?
Dont think so re sealing pre installation. I will check. I have asked if door is removable which would solve that. Must be as it was put in after cavity itself.
iluvmuse,
Jul 17, 12:29am
the sealer (especially oil-based) may leave the gib paper feeling slightly prickly as surface fibers dry and harden. Run your hand over to feel them and lightly sand any rough areas smooth. then you'll have the smooth sealed surface you're after
mtbotrev,
Jul 20, 7:04am
Hi. back to the door please. It is Bunnings cavity slider with clearly non sealed edges but a very very smooth different colour faces(creamy/light brown?. Does that mean it is pre painted/sealed and all I need to do is 2 top coats?
Did the sealing today(walls and ceiling). how do I avoid lines at the end of the roller which I then need to go over?. is it too much sealant and or too much pressure applying?
Ta
johotech,
Jul 20, 7:38am
I told you how to do the door edges in the post above.
You don't have to undercoat the faces, but it would be better if you did. It will give you a decent key coat which can be lightly sanded before top coating.
Technically, the coat on the faces is a primer. Usual process is primer, undercoat, top coats. Some undercoats are also primers, so there is some flexibility with the number of coats.
But, the better the prep and coverage with undercoats, the better the top coat will cover.
Slight "lines" at the roller edges are normal when rolling pigmented sealer, particularly if you have brushed the edges first. They won't show through to your top coats.
As I said in my post #28, I would usually do a full undercoat after pigmented sealer - same principal - primer, undercoat, top coat. But having said that, I usually just use two coats of a water based high build sanding sealer on new gib (sanding and dust off after each coat), unless pigmented sealer is specifically required for some reason.
jh34,
Jul 20, 9:27am
Do you mean they clog up or it's bad for the motor. I used one with a filter last time and that clogged instantly but the bags aren't so bad?
jh34,
Jul 20, 9:40am
I've just been doing a bedroom using Gib 4. The Gib sheets are un even because some are new and some were all ready in place (long story) so i had to taper the jointing compound. I found the plus 4 fairly thick on the second coat. I'm not sure where to neck. I clean up the dust in the morning (when it settles) and I'll use a light to check for bumps. I'm not sure weather to put plain paper over it and paint it or a sealer and paint it?
mtbotrev,
Jul 21, 12:58am
thanx Johotech. I will make progress.
I have been using an undercoat on the architrave skirtings and scotia. Seems quite thick to try and roller it on to the door but guess I will try it. It is water based. not usre if its acrylic enamal tho.
elect70,
Nov 17, 2:58am
+1 i had a "handy man" do a room for me . looked reasonable but took days to sand it to get it 100% .for papering . Pro can do it in half the time & only need a light sand .
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