Time and cost in replace install of wall oven?

Yep, any links or documentation to this claim?

We struggle to get a sparky to come for less than 4 hours let alone an hour at a time down here, Chch rebuild and QT boom's sucked all the tradesman away from the south.

You want me to quote you the electricity act?

.
ok, since you asked so nicely.

http://prd-lgnz-nlb.prd.pco.net.nz/act/public/1992/0122/latest/whole.html#DLM282872 And here is the prescribed regulation.
http://www.legislation.govt.nz/regulation/public/2010/0036/latest/DLM2763688.html

57(3)(b)

Any other questions?

(g)
the work is, before connection to a power supply, tested and certified, in accordance with regulations, by a registered person who holds a current practising licence issued under this Act that authorises that person to test and certify prescribed electrical work.
(2)
For the purposes of section 79(1)(a) of the Act, the domestic electrical wiring work that an owner of premises may do is work of any type described in subclause (3) on a domestic installation that has a maximum demand at or below—
(a)
80 amperes per phase if single-phase; or

Atom you're quoting clauses without context which is a total waste of time.

So I'll quote a bit more:
In clause 79:
(2)
Subsection (1)(e) and (f) apply only if required by regulations.

In clause 80:
(2)
Subsection (1)(g) applies only if required by regulations.

The regulations only require independent testing for 57(3)(e)
"installing, extending, and altering subcircuits (including submains),"

It's not required for 57(3)(a) to (d)

Otherwise you wouldn't even be allowed to replace a fuse.

And I will help you out as well. 57 (a)
For the purposes of section 79(1)(a) of the Act, the domestic electrical wiring work that an owner of premises may do is work of any type described in subclause (3) on a domestic installation that has a maximum demand at or below—
(a)80 amperes per phase if single-phase;
A oven uses more than 80 amps therefore it does not come under the exemption. As for fuses etc it is covered under 57 (3a)

When we got our new oven, the store (Noel Leeming from memory) included the install in the price, and took away the old one.

A normal domestic house connection is 63Amps in total.

Built in ovens are around 10-15A, a hob is 25-30A maximum.

Place I worked at had an oven like that. Well more of a furnace for molten metal for castings. 🤣 Must be some hot chilli.

Gee if an oven draws more than 80 amp when operating, you would have to go and ask the bank manager nicely, in order to pay the electrical bill, when ever you wanted to cook the sunday roast.
Perhaps in your calculation of the total current draw of a normal domestic oven you should deduct approx 60 amps from your current > 80 amp answer !

I was surprised to see that my oven used so little power. From memory it said something like 800 watts. I'll check next time I pull it out.

ow. Well looks like I'm wrong then.

For $80 why take the risk, and I am sure your insurer will feel more at ease.

Wooooaaaah. Chill there bro! I agreed with you and was asking where it says we can't work on our own house,

Sitting here peeing myself with Sparky hubby reading over his shoulder. He said "if you think its legal to wire it in yourself without getting a sparky in, ring your insurance company and check they will cover your house after you have done the DIY".

Insurance company doesn't trump legislation.

Homeowners, if competent, can replace essentially anything which is like for like. If your hubby is a sparky and doesn't know this, you should suggest he does a bit of light reading.

While sitting there peeing yourself, a wee cut n paste from Consumer magazine says:

Electrical work
There is a limited amount of electrical work you can do when it comes to wiring in your own home. This is listed in regulation 64 of the Electricity (Safety) Regulations 2010 and includes:

Replacing switches, socket outlets, lamp holders, ceiling roses, water heater switches, thermostats and elements.
Repairing light fittings.
Moving, repairing or replacing flexible cords connected to permanently connected outlets or ceiling roses.
Disconnecting and reconnecting permanently wired appliances.
Moving switches, sockets and lighting outlets, but only if they are wired with tough plastic-sheathed cables.
Installing, extending, or altering any cables (except the main cables that come from the street to your switchboard). You have to get the finished job checked and tested by a licensed electrical inspector. You cannot connect your work to the electricity supply yourself. The inspector will connect it, test it, and issue you with a Certificate of Compliance (see below) if it complies with safety requirements.
Fitting plugs, cord extension sockets or appliance connectors to a flexible cord.
Replacing fuse wires and fuse cartridges.
Repairing appliances.
Before you do any work, make sure:

You have the necessary knowledge and skills.
The power is turned off.
You are not anywhere where conductors or terminals are live or could become live.
When something goes wrong
If you think something has gone wrong, make sure the power is off and contact a licensed electrician. Otherwise you risk injuring yourself or someone who lives with you and you could be prosecuted and fined $10,000 (section 163 of the Electricity Act 1992).

There are training providers (like technical institutes) that run courses for people wanting to do their own electrical work at home.

For more information about working safely with electricity, contact the Energy Safety Service.

Work that must be done by a licensed electrician
Any work not appearing in the list above must be done by a licensed electrician. This is a person registered by the Electrical Workers Registration Board (EWRB).

For any new work done, the electrician must issue you a Certificate of Compliance (CoC), a copy of which is also sent to the EWRB. The CoC is an assurance that the work has been done to New Zealand’s electrical and safety standards. Keep the CoC safe. You may need it for an insurance claim or when you are selling your house.

A CoC is not required for maintenance work such as replacing sockets and light fittings.

Note that you are not permitted to do any work on a switchboard, apart from replacing fuse wire or fuse cartridges.

I'm guessing you and your sparky hubby are just know nothing know it all's!

No prob. Misinterpreted it.

Funnily enough, there are way more electrical rules that say what you can do and how you should do it, than there are rules saying what you can't do.

In general terms, if it doesn't say that you can, then usually you can't.

Yes I agree with some on up above, the retailer (think Harvey Norma) delivered, installed the new one and removed old oven. all part of the purchase price. I just assumed they would and they did.