Attaching a trellis to a brick wall.

blinker69, Dec 10, 10:30am
Hi there everyone,has anyone ever attached a trellis to the brick wall of the house,what did you use!I got two honeysuckle plants (kindly donated by someone off here) that are ready to go and I just bought two large trellis to fix onto the outside wall of the house.
Also do you get any problems with the climbers attaching onto the brickwork and insects from the plants coming into the house too!

Thanks ahead:)

eagles9999, Dec 10, 8:05pm
Possibly Dynabolts to attach but somebody more exper about druilling holes in bricks may be able to say for sure.As for the last two questions both are likely prospects.

mm12345, Dec 10, 8:14pm
I'd just use plastic rawl plugs, and stainless screws.Problem with dynabolts is if you want to shift them or remove them later - it's not so easy.So long as the hole is drilled properly, and you use the right sized screw,rawl plugs hold fine.

tillsbury, Dec 11, 12:04am
Use rawlplugs, into the mortar joints preferably to avoid damaging the bricks.Mount stainless hooks into the rawlplugs, then put corresponding eyes on to the trellis and hang it up.This way you can "unhook" the top of the trellis and pivot it away from the wall if you need to for future maintenance or gardening.

blinker69, Dec 11, 7:34am
Thanks guys.good idea Tillsbury.I was also thinking of using wooden battens and I can mount stainless hooks into it just to give more space between the wall and the trellis.Does that sound good!I have not seen stainless hooks but I can imagine they won't be long enough to give ample space away from the wall!Anything less than 100mm and more than 50mm gap would be perfect!

redpenn, Dec 12, 10:52pm
Once you have battens affixed to the wall, try (my granma's) this trick. Make a separate frame for the trellis, and mount it to the battens above the base of the plant (ie not down on the ground) with - believe it of not - hinges on the bottom, so that it can be swung forwards and down away from the wall a little bit, to allow you to check the plant from the back, and also see insect life or mould on the wall.
That air gap is almost vital for reducing risk of virus or bacterial or mould damage.