Hi all. I have a 1940's bungalow that has a lot of rot in the weatherboards and being a tight ar@s I want to DIY the replacement of the board. Im handy with tools but never attempted this kind of work before so any advise is appreciated.
Ive done some googling and youtubeing on the subject but have not found anything that is deeply comprehensive and detailed about the subject. So if you can help with links that would be great to.
Also I can imagine mitering new corners might be a skill that takes some practice to get right so any info on that would be great!
Thanks in advance.
ebygum1,
Feb 8, 9:34pm
A lot will depend on the size and profile of your weatherboard. Some are easy to get,some not so easy.Measure the face and describe the shape and you will get better advice. Good Luck.
ang_ck,
Feb 8, 9:58pm
Good luck. I had a builder to come and did for me.
My advice are a. do a small bit at a time. b. prime all the sides before you fit it back in c. Since you are going to replace the weatherboard, at the same time, replace the black building paper as well.
Are you thinking about replacing weatherboards on your home? It can be a daunting task, but with the right tools and some DIY weatherboard know-how, it's a project that you can tackle on your own. In this article, we'll discuss the steps you can take to replace weatherboards, as well as the cost and some pros and cons of doing it yourself.
Firstly, let's talk about what weatherboards are. Weatherboards are the exterior cladding on your home, usually made from timber, and are designed to protect your home from the elements. Over time, weatherboards can become damaged due to exposure to the weather, insects, or general wear and tear. If your weatherboards are in need of repair or replacement, it's important to address the issue as soon as possible to prevent further damage to your home.
If you're a DIY enthusiast, you may be considering replacing weatherboards yourself. Before you start, you'll need to gather some tools and materials. You'll need a hammer, a saw, a pry bar, a nail gun, nails, screws, and some new weatherboards. You may also need some additional materials, such as Earls Wood Hardener from Bunnings, which can be used to repair damaged timber.
One of the benefits of doing the job yourself is that you can save money on labor costs. However, it's important to consider the cost of the materials and tools, as well as the time and effort required to complete the job. The cost of replacing weatherboards can vary depending on the size of your home and the materials you choose. In general, the cost of materials can range from $15 to $40 per square meter, and the cost of labor can depend on the complexity of the job and the experience of the contractor you hire.
Replacing weatherboards yourself can be a rewarding experience, but it's not without its challenges. One of the main challenges is the physical effort required to remove the old weatherboards and install the new ones. You'll also need to have some basic carpentry skills to ensure that the new weatherboards are installed correctly. However, if you're up for the challenge, DIY weatherboard replacement can be a great way to save money and learn new skills.
If you're considering replacing weatherboards, it's important to weigh up the costs and benefits of doing it yourself versus hiring a professional. While doing it yourself can save you money, it's important to ensure that you have the necessary tools, materials, and skills to complete the job safely and effectively. And don't forget to use Earls Wood Hardener from Bunnings to repair any damaged timber before installing the new weatherboards.
pixma,
Feb 9, 1:12am
Did this in 2013. Shop around if you buy the boards, one place was $11pm and another $4 or $5pm. Once the old boards were pulled off the rot was worse then it looked. Ended up replacing over 25m worth, I think. Lagged the water pipes while I had access to them, too.
New boards were treated and primed already. Haven't got around to painting them yet.
mss2006,
Feb 9, 6:49am
Thanks so far. Ive found today I can get the profile (190mm) made to order for $8.15 per Lm H3 pine or $6 second hand (I assume rimu). I have already retro fitted black paper into the cavities when I relined the interior and insulated with bats at the same time.
The exterior replacement will be in sections here and there depending on where the rot is in the boards. I wont be replacing entire sections of wall.
What I really need is a comprehensive guide as to how to do the job in all its aspects.
skin1235,
Feb 9, 7:00am
( what is the finished surface - vertical or stepped - shiplapped or raked )what method is used to finish the corners, soakers? ( tin covers ) or flush cut, or overlaid board
ang_ck,
Feb 9, 7:01am
Wow, that is cheap. Here in Wellington, To do a made to order, i will have to pay for a setup fee of 170+GST and $9 per linear metre.
mss2006,
Feb 9, 7:05am
There is a $100 set up fee for a under 500m run.
Will take a photo of the board and post a pic soon.
mss2006,
Feb 9, 7:12am
Hi. If by stepped you mean do the boards overlap then yes. Not sure what the difference is of shiplapped or raked. The existing corners are flush cut if by that means simply joined face to face at a 45 deg angle.
Ive replaced a few weatherboards, both individually and a whole gable as well. One thing I bought was a packet of wooden wedges to hammer underneath the boards to separate them, then a combination of a narrow keyhole type saw and a multitool to cut out the damaged section. But it sounds like you need a lot done. I didnt have do deal with mitred corners as they were all boxed up. I bought a book from BRANZ and it has all you need to know. recommended. if you are after a complete guide, then try the book, read and absorb. money well spent if you ask me.
"BRANZ Good practice guide - timber cladding". also try "Good Repair Guide: Horizontal Timber Weatherboards"
morrisjvan,
Feb 10, 9:02am
while I applaud your attempt to do your own DIY, if you don't know even basic stuff like that , this probably isn't a job for you, carpentry is a trade, and takes years to master . Weather boards keep the weather out, and if it's not done right it can compromise the longevity of the building.
marte,
Feb 13, 10:02am
Find a house where they are replacing the weatherboards. Then offer to help for free so you can find out the fine points of putting weatherboards up.
I got a bunch of tips from just stopping to talk to some guys who were fixing one of theirs house up.
Like, drill the nail holes of nails at the end of the boards to stop them splitting. Hold the nail so the nail tips slices thru the grain of the wood, not wedging the board open. (Look at the nail tip, its sorta wedge shaped to a point). Stainless nails. Weatherboard gap giller only. Etc etc
trade4us2,
Feb 14, 1:59am
I have a very old Kauri house. If there's any rot I like to remove all trace of it and paint the surrounding area with Metalex. And I put building paper in. I now screw the weatherboards on with stainless steel screws as they hold better and I can easily remove a weatherboard later if I need to look at plumbing and wiring. A Renovator tool could be used to cut out the first weatherboard. Here's my last wall finished: http://oi45.tinypic.com/2a66ybs.jpg
ebygum1,
Feb 14, 3:32am
Have I not seen that wall in a paint advertisement?
trade4us2,
Feb 14, 3:37am
Well I was going to contact Wattyl for some free paint in return for using my photos, but I have so much Solagard that I got on special that I don't need any more for 10 years.
ebygum1,
Feb 14, 4:19am
Having thought about it,maybe it was a Mitre 10 "How To " ad?
survivalkiwi,
Feb 14, 4:36am
I am a builder. It is a pig of a job. I would rather put in pink batts than take on a weatherboard replacement job.
ang_ck,
Feb 14, 6:39am
i agree. I saw my builder doing it. I thought it was an easy job. Oh boy, i was wrong.
survivalkiwi,
Feb 14, 6:50am
It is an easier job now days with some of the new toys we have . The multi tool ( renovater. I have 2 makita ones. One electric and one battery) and a sbre saw would make things easier. But I have not done a rotten board repair for probably 10 years. The other problem with them is that untill you remove the boards you never know what you will find behind them. It is not nice having to tell a young couple who have just bought their first home that they are looking at thousand in repairs.
ang_ck,
Feb 14, 7:11am
OP, Check this out if you are intending to strip your weatherboard to bare timber
I don't think you are allowed to anymore either. Might pay to check with local Council. Could be an insurance issue if it leaks at any time in the future.
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