Which Log burner?

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golfaholic2, Jun 13, 8:10am
Old Man Pine maybe tonijo ?

tonijo, Jun 13, 8:46am
Nope. We have been burning mostly silver beech, eucalyptus, macro, and plain old pine. Mostly silver beech - lovely wood.

brittsyl, Jun 15, 7:44am
does anyone have a wood fire that heats water radiators in other rooms

pestri, Jun 15, 8:20am
You need to do a few after market mods, drill a couple of small holes in the intake and baffles to get a little air flowing in to enable slow burn overnight.

bergkamp, Jun 15, 8:36am
we used to have this in our house , a boiler outside .4 or 5 raiators inside . Took too long to heat up . too inefficient

skin1235, Jun 15, 8:51am
no, but recently I had to replace a cpu fan on my computer
wheres the point to your question you ask

that little computer fan runs silent, or very nearly silent, its 60mm across, and runs on a 12v 450milliamp transformer ( wee black box common as most 12V phone chargers), the point is it will move 3.5 cubic meters of air per minute, if it was set at the opening of a 60mm tube through a wall close to ceiling height it will certainly shift a lot of hot air into the next room or into the passage then into other rooms via a tube to them, probably just leaving the doors ajar would do
you can get small vent covers to fit then also,
it is my plan to fit at least one in this big place, the old magnum 100 does extremely well and overheats one end of the house, a simple tube maybe all it needs to heat the other end too

nukhelenc, Jun 15, 8:59am
Guy next does, I think its setup on a yunca Blenz
Thats about all i know

timbo69, Jun 15, 5:12pm
Im putting one of these in a new build and putting radiators into slab - expensive but should be excellent. I have limitless free wood.

http://www.broadys.co.nz/afawcs0157265/CATID=94/ID=426/SID=414374054/Hunter-Herald-80b-Boiler.html

it put about 16kw into heating water and 10kw into room.

ask me in a few years what i think.

cantabman1, Jun 15, 7:54pm
Maybe you had a birds nest that caused your fire?

chenmilligan, Jun 17, 7:31pm
Landlord (parents) had a pyroclassic installed 3 years ago. Woefully insufficient heat, clogged chimney using wood that has seasoned undercover for 3+ years, and the wetback element had three leaks early. We went from heating our home adequately with a old school Kent, to needing heaters to assist the so called 15kw pyroclassic. Local agent had the same complaints from every other customer who had one installed and no longer stocks them- if I recall his exact words "every person that had one installed wished they hadn't" and " it might suit the upper North Island, but it doesn't suit Southland". If you value your family's health don't install one if you live in a real cold climate.

ro42, Jun 17, 9:37pm
Bosca spirit 550. I've had one for over a year and it's brilliant: much better than my previous masport and burns a lot less wood. If stocked up about 10.30pm, the embers are still red in the morning.

mack77, Jun 18, 11:02am
I have a Wamsler K72C central heating cooker that is capable of running hot water radiators that I could put up for sale on Trademe if anyone thought that someone may want such an item.

antljc, Jun 27, 9:33am
Our pyroclassic iv is into its 3rd winter always fueled with wood <15%. The first 2 seasons it was great, warm & fuel efficient performance. This year is disappointing for the reasons discovered as follows. The sweep wasn't cleaning right down the flue, as he was concerned about damaging the wetback heat exchanger. We bought 3x1.5m rods and a brush and did so ourselves. This provided some improvement. Pyroclassic in Hastings advised lifting the lower cone from the fire top's spigot to inspect the upper chamber. We were shocked by the amount of creosote deposits, so removed the top entirely gave it a good clean out. We also checked that the air inlet to the top tubes was clear. My concern is that the operating instructions for pyro's say with regular cleaning, flue cleaning deposits will burn up from the top chamber and removing the top is not recommended by the sweep. But we had two problems, a restricted lower flue and excessive deposits around the heat exchanger preventing gas flow. From now on, every season I will lift the flue, place a metal canister under it and then brush from top down. The canister should prevent soot from falling into the top chamber. Lifting the flue only requires removing one screw and setting up some wooden blocks to support the flue for inspection. None of this is mentioned in the instructions, but anyone running a pyro needs to check the upper chamber regularly. This is a bit more painful than other burners I've used.

antljc, Jun 27, 9:44am
tonijo, I'd be checking out the top chamber. My post below excludes the bit about our flue fire. It was out short and sweet thanks to us being there and shutting the turbo down (the fire has just been started). We too thought our pyro was clean as a whistle, always burning bone dry wood. I think a wetback increases the likelihood of creosote build up, as the gases must be cooled significantly more by heating water.

tonijo, Jun 29, 1:43am
cheers antljc - will definitely be doing that.

reggienz, Jun 29, 4:58am
We have a Masport eco wee rad. it heats up our 110 sq meter open plan house very well, We even have to open the windows some nights. We burn dry eucalypt and oak , and a good sized piece will burn overnight without altering manufacturers settings.

antljc, Jun 30, 6:09am
Following our complete cleanout of cresosote from the pyro iv as previously posted, performance was still not what we remembered of the new fire with the turbo closed. That left the primary air ports behind the front cover to check, and eureka! Our model has heat insulation behind the front cover to avoid heat damage to the painted surface. When fitting the panel, you have to pull it out to avoid damaging the insulation on the spacer bolt just between the air ports. The bolt is a tight fit on the insulation, and over time the insulation compresses, allowing the front panel clearance to the port (7mm) to be reduced, and restrict air flow. Today's conversation with Pyroclassic found the insulation is no longer fitted to the front panels, avoiding the risk of blocked primary air ports. Fixed at last!

zl2adl, Jun 30, 6:49am
Well all this talk about this and that name wood burner, what about the cost of the wood to burn in whatever name unit you have. I have just removed our wood burner and installed a gas flued heater, not a flame effect but a gas heater with fan assist, works very well and the point is that I can buy a lot of gas for the $400.00 it costs for wood each year. Down south don't have city gas so could be a bit dearer on bulk bottles.

maccachic1, Jun 30, 11:13pm
Each to their own I prefer wood burner myself - loads of benefits.

antljc, Jul 1, 12:49am
Your choice of convenience and dollar savings of fossil fuels over wood says it all, and the underlying problem of carbon emissions.

jonners2013, Jul 1, 12:56am
you think you're saving the environment by having a wood burner? gosh people will convince themselves of anything.

antljc, Jul 1, 5:38am
With a low emission burner properly run and fueled, yes. Please explain your take or environmentally friendly heating choice. Rubbing sticks?

golfaholic2, Jul 1, 7:20am
Probably thinks using an electricity powered heat pump is saving the planet . not realising that 35% of electricity is generated by the burning of coal .
Obviously doesn't realise either , that burning wood is carbon neutral , excluding cutting , splitting and transporting said wood

jonners2013, Jul 1, 7:29am
so what you're saying is that it's not carbon neutral.

don't get me wrong, i'm a huge fan of wood burners and i have one in my place but i don't kid myself that i'm doing it for the environment.

maccachic1, Dec 2, 6:53pm
You forgot what goes into the production of the heat pump