Clearing hedge roots from around sewer pipe

. the 1950s tile type of drain. About 4 metres of it from the laundry outlet, to where the toilet outlet joins it, then about 4 metres to the septic tank. Those 4 meters are clear of the roots.

Is that legally an okay task for a layperson? It seems to me that as long as I don't change the pipes in any way and don't fiddle around inside them, it should be okay, but I don't know exactly what the law says.

I may have to call a licenced drain techie because I suspect some of the fine roots have got inside the pipe, which might require professional tools and/or expertise to clear them. I figured that doing a lot of the digging myself could save money -- I don't have much due to being a long-term invalid -- and the digging is good for the muscles.

Aha, found an answer in an ancient (1974) Reader's Digest Repair Manual, page 119:

"It is illegal for anyone except a licensed plumber to either alter or repair any internal plumbing. In addition, the soil pipe from the house to the sewer may be serviced only by a licensed drainer (e.g., clearing a blocked sewer pipe)."

So if that's still accurate, no-one should gripe if I dig and remove roots around the outside of the pipe. But after getting an inspection cap off, it is rather tempting to wriggle around inside a bit of number 8 wire that's bent into a hook on the end.

You have a septic tank so are obviously out of town. No one is going to give a hoot what you do. You can hire a drain cleaning rods, there is a fitting with a screw on the end for pulling out roots etc. Just do it.

Thanks Omamari.

Got an unexpected visit from a local drainlayer late today who took a look. Said there would be an inspection trap in the blocked area, which I didn't know and was grateful for, as it will save a lot of work and possible expense to dig around it. It's possible the roots go in beside the lid. Also sensibly checked whether or not I protect myself against any mishaps (answer yes, rubber gauntlets, wash and disinfect splashed skin, etc.) and refused $10 for his 15 minutes. So I gave him some info that might be good for his grandkids.

Just wondering about hedge roots. Would it make sense to dig a narrow and deep-enough trench alongside the pipe every two years or longer to cut off any roots approaching it?

I even had a weird thought. El-cheapo, slow, blunt, old electric chainsaw. Plunge blade into ground and work alongside pipe. There are no underground cables there, but best to dig first in case there's buried metal. Could do that yearly in a few minutes. Would it, could it work? Or anything else that's fast? I'm in sand-country on the coast.

Also, is there anything that's effective in preventing roots, soil and sand getting into pipes once they are clean? Wrapping joints in old bread bags seems to help a little, as does black polythene above and below an inspection-trap lid. Anything that hinders growth.

How about stuffing any gaps in joints with crumpled paper, or old plastic bags? Duct tape?

If it is only 8m why not dig the trench yourself (you seem keen) and get the pipes relaid with plastic, only one y joint to bother you then.

Money! But it's definitely on the long-term plan and there are currently greater priorities with the plumbing, such as breather pipes that are, umm, showing their age.

Have been an invalid since 1989 after my business went down the tubes like so many others in Wellington following the 87 crash, plus the long-term result of a rugby injury in 1963.

Am a little better off now with superannuation, and saving furiously to replace my 58-year-old roof which leaks badly -- onto the sofa if I forget to climb up and empty the containers in time. But that might take a few more years, barring a Lotto win or golden pot find at the end of a rainbow.

believe it or not there is a chainsaw for exactly that job, have hired one and used it to put in 40mts of 20mm pipe, it cuts 25mm wide and down to 600mm

and your last post suggests that hiring such would not be an option, if you have an old bar and chain for your electric saw I see no reason why it would not work, as you suggest you should probably dig alongside it first to check there is no rubble or metal, then every couple of years do a root prune with the saw
root pruning is a legitimate job, done in almost every market garden, definitely in every asparagus block with shelter belts every 120mts, to stop the hedgerow roots from stripping the nutrients needed by the target plants

and heres a cowboy roof repair

and old sheet, and a bucket of paint, slop plenty of paint over the leak, rip the sheet and drop a patch onto that wet paint, another coat of paint over that, move onto the next leak, then tomorrow or before the next rain another coat
has been known to last in excess of 10 yrs

Wowee! Thanks Skin1235. Now you mention it, it makes sense to have a purpose-built chainsaw or similar.

And I've heard of a similar roof repair and just not been able to try it. It would certainly work on a paint job that's still in good nick, or no paint at all, but a lot of my paint is peeling and there's a lot of rust.

Hiring is out when it's uneconomic to go to town to uplift and return the item at a cost of $60-$80, if it's two special trips. But if I can find someone who can do that for me for $20-$30 because they are already going, I'd pay for a good labour-saver.

One of my worst leaks probably comes from a rusted two-piece valley which needs to be replaced with a one-piece. The corrugated iron beside it is in poor nick too. I've improved it at the bottom by sliding pieces of iron underneath, but everything I've tried in the centre hasn't really worked, including the Selley's gutter and roofing goo in holes.

Gotta expect that when it's 58. At least it lasted well. Held down by lead-head nails and probably painted with red lead paint, a little of which has peeled in places and gone to the bottom of my water tanks.

We learn to live with these things, and although life isn't what I originally wanted, at least I have a home with a roof, no mortgage, a 1/4-acre section, vege garden, car, hundreds of CDS and DVDs, books, computer, internet, people on it who are helpful, and a wonderful little cat I adopted from wild. She's a treasure.

you'd be surprised how well a painted skin of material will keep water out - think of this a moment, when I was a younger lad kayak's were every boys dream - so I made one, out of lumber strips and a plywood bulkhead system, covered it with a used bedsheet, stapled that on tighish, then gave it two coats of paint, it did me several trips up and down the river, it broke in half a few years later out at castlecliff in the surf, the wood broke, it was still waterproof

your internal gutter is just another frame needing a good waterproof coat on it, these patches can be put anywhere there is a hole, even over loose nail heads, plenty of paint and a second coat after that is dry

Never tried it, but this may be good for when roots get in. Maybe do this yearly or however often you think you may be getting fine roots in there

http://www.hydroflow.co.nz/plumbing/chemicals/rectorseal-root-destroyer-900gm-2lb

That appears to be copper sulphate. A garden shop might be a cheaper source. Sooner or later the cost of these band-aids will be more than new PVC pipe that short. Clearing the pipes each time they block is what you do when they are metres deep and 10s of metres long.