Moth vine - what poison to use

What is a good poison to kill moth vine. Roundup was laughed at by the new sprouts.

"Number 8" weedkiller, neat, and not in area you want to grow food. Use strong precautions (industrial gloves, mask, plastic apron), and wash well after), and paint on with disposable paint brush (carefully disposed of later), repeat in a fortnight until gone. Worked for us on wisteria and moth vine. Caution and patience are also absolute necessities. and check with neighbours as it's no good removing from your property if birds or wind will bring it right back to you.

From Kings plant barn
MOTH VINE PLANT
Araujia hortorum.
CHEMICAL CONTROLOption 1Cut vines and immediately apply Cut’N’Paste MetGel. On smaller vines apply paste to the bottom side of multiple leaves.The advantage of using Cut’N’Paste is that it minimises herbicide use, is easy to apply, and can be used selectively (won’t affect nearby plants).Option 2Paint cut stumps with Yates Woody Weedkiller. You can spray, however avoid spraying if the moth plants have infested plants you want to keep.In situations where there are lots of vines present and you are not concerned with nearby plants, spray plants thoroughly with Yates Woody Weedkiller.
M

You poisoned a wisteria? You murderer you, lol.

the plant was a "stray" dropped from the rear end of a feathered friend, and the trunk grew like a triffid, 20 cm trunk in less than 4 years. The darn thing spread everywhere, and took months to kill, until the Number 8, painted on fortnightly, finally did the job. So, not murder, but a defense of property and a battle for survival, which I finally won.

I thought.

But. I saw today a sucker must have got across to the neighbours, and is growing there vigorously, so I hope it's not going to come back from the dead and coming to get me.

I too found wisteria very tenacious. We call it our Triffid. Planted one about 25 years ago when we moved here and realised after about ten or so years that it was impossible to control. They store food very efficiently in their roots. I would say I have got rid of it finally by regularly removing shoots the instant I see them. However, I would not stake my life on it. I often spend weeks elsewhere and my husband doesnt check for it. Nowadays I only find it regrowing where I first planted it. Eventually we concreted over that little square. You can guess what happened.

There's a Face book group called "Society Totally Against Moth Plant" (stamp). They may be able to provide advice such as:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/234572443294360/announcements

I think they are Auckland based.

C&P from Whangarei Council
Dig and pull out seedlings/small vines. Roots of larger plants should be cut off at least 5cm underground if can’t be pulled whole. Hang roots up off the ground, leave cut vines up in trees to die. Collect pods and dispose of to landfill, burn or bury deeply.
Cut stump application: Cut at ground level and immediately treat cut stems with (20ml Banvine® /1L water), or (100ml Tordon Brushkiller® /1L water), or Picloram gel. If using Picloram gel, make the cut higher and paint approx. 20cm of the stem below the cut, as well a scut surface. Leave remaining cut material on site to rot down.
Spray in summer (5g metsulfuron + 10mls penetrant /10 litres water), or (120ml Tordon Brushkiller® /10L water), or (120ml Banvine® /10L water). Summer-Autumn best. Clear off desirable trees before spraying to reduce bykill. Don’t replant sprayed sites for 6 months/until seedlings appear naturally.