I move between indoors and outdoors a lot during the evening and don’t like overheating inside
That is why tonight, for example, we lit the fire around 6pm and let it go out almost straight away
It’s 9.5C outside with RH 91%
Inside is 20C with RH 40%
Windows were open for an hour today and the only other heating is thanks to the Sun.
I struggle to see why some people try to make the subject so complicated
tweake,
Jun 21, 4:26pm
that 20c 40% says it all. i don't recall ever having that dry here. thats mostly determined by your weather. thats a huge advantage which is why you don't have issues. your lack of humidity is doing all the drying for you. lucky for you.
here its currently outside 15.1c 81% (local weather station) inside 23c 60% and thats pretty good for here.
joanie32,
Jun 21, 4:34pm
So it’s wetter and colder outside here But my house is dryer and as warm as I want it You are obviously doing something wrong
tweake,
Jun 21, 4:49pm
no you have the physics wrong.
if you heat your "9.5C outside 91%" air up to 15c you get around 65% RH, a lot less than our 15c 81%. so your outside air is drier than ours.
a whole lot easier to dry a house when your air is drier.
btw my inside moisture content matches the outdoor moisture content (and your does too). which is the best you can do without using dehumidifiers.
joanie32,
Jun 21, 4:54pm
Correct
And all I do is open windows
And light a fire
It’s really that simple.
tweake,
Jun 21, 5:04pm
yes, and that can work absolutely fine. you don't "have to' get a ventilation system. there is advantages to doing so but you can run a house perfectly fine the old fashion way.
the difference between our houses is mine has to be kept a bit warmer than yours to keep it out of mold growing conditions and the higher humidity makes its a bit harder to dry things.
tygertung,
Jun 21, 5:11pm
Would you leave the heating on if you were going away for an extended period to keep it out of "mold growing conditions"?
tweake,
Jun 21, 5:25pm
for me its usually warm enough (get enough sun) that its not required. keep in mind that it needs to be in mold growing conditions for a long enough time as well. (there is calcs that can work that out for you) but you do see old homes, wood sheds etc that go moldy. just like south walls are prone (outside needs regular cleaning).
but otherwise a lot of house are right on that border and that shows in the stats. theres a higher % of homes that are moldy and damp in auckland/northland than in the rest of the country.
if we built decent insulated houses, i would leave heat on even if i wasn't home. its easier and cheaper to keep a home warm than to heat it back up from cold (with heat pumps).
johotech,
Jun 21, 5:54pm
Being in the warm damp north, you really have no idea what the advantages of a positive pressure system can be for anyone who is in a colder part of the country. And in all your waffle, you still have no understanding of how the control system operates with different roof & room temperatures.
So you should just deal with your warm damp whatever way you think best, and stop overloading everyone with mind numbing nonsense which has little to do with how positive pressure ventilation systems work.
tygertung,
Jun 22, 3:21am
Surely pumping freezing cold damp air in and displacing the air which the heater has heated isn't going to be beneficial?
Surely it would be better to only pump warmer air in?
tweake,
Jun 22, 5:00am
first thing is you need ventilation, so your pumping air in no matter what (or its coming in via windows or just leakage).
pumping warmer air in is fine IF you have it, and thats the catch. in winter there is generally not enough sun to heat the roof space. certainly any heat you can get helps reduce the amount of heating you need. you just have to remember its small your not going to heat the house with it. the trade off is summer, if the ventilation is the cooler outside air you can have slightly reduced air con usage. this is where the summer kits are useful (especially the auto ones).
however you have to way up the cost if its worth spending the extra on the gear or a little xtra on the heating or cooling. there is a trade off, you just need to work out what fits your situation.
tygertung,
Jun 22, 5:05am
Surely New Zealand doesn't get hot enough to require air conditioning for cooling in the summer?
But I wouldn't have thought that it was advisable during the winter to pump outside air into the house at night, when it tends to be very cold and damp.
onl_148,
Jun 22, 6:14am
We got an HRV system several years ago, I think the "questionable" sales methods are a thing of the past, or at least our experience was fine. We literally noticed the difference the same day it was installed. warmer and drier. We had an HRV heat transfer system installed at the same time, so on a cold winters night the nice warm air in the lounge, from the log burner, is ducted into each of the bedrooms. the rooms are not "hot" but it just takes the edge of the cold, so it is not a big shock when you move from the lounge to the bedroom. We are very happy with the result. I understand that the other brand of systems are much the same. it is not rocket science. as stated the difference will be in the control system / user friendlyness of it !
joanie32,
Jun 22, 11:55am
You don’t know much about the Waikato it seems It’s not low humidity, and it’s a shed load colder that up north You’ve admitted what you are doing in your house hasn’t been particularly successful If you to do the same down here it would be worse. You really need to stop giving such terrible advice One day someone is going to believe it
tweake,
Jun 25, 10:43am
sorry i have been away a bit. lol yes nz gets hot enough for aircon. local guy installs most of them for aircon rather than heating. while its not all that hot here, the humidity makes a big difference. of course aircon dehumidifies when its cools. chch routinely gets hotter than us. remember the 32c auckland heat wave?
you still want want ventilation even at night. it can actually be drier at night if it gets cold enough for dew to form. natures dehumidifier.
a mates system was stopping at night and he was having a lot of condensation. i changed some settings to make it run longer and it had less condensation on a colder night. unfortunately something is still funky as the system turns off over night.
tweake,
Jun 25, 10:46am
mine works perfectly fine. i have no problems whatsoever. i have not admitted to having any problem with it.
you need to stop trying to be a troll.
sarahb5,
Jun 25, 11:18am
Do you have much of an issue with condensation in your house? I don’t because my house is old and draughty with wooden joinery and a high stud, and I always have windows open for ventilation and air flow. For these reasons I was advised that all I need is a heat pump because there is already good air flow and no condensation.
tweake,
Jun 25, 12:52pm
my apologise for getting sidetracked. (thanks sarahb5)
it depends a lot on which system they have quoted. smartvent have something like 4 different systems. unfortunately most manufactures give out very little in the way of actual detail about their systems. so its difficult to accurate compare them.
a mate has a sayr which is about 7 years old. no idea if its the same as current model. the things i don't like about it is at full speed its produces massive air flows, the fan is way way to big. it turns off when to cold which means the air flows back up the fan. also did not like the outlet setup which makes outlet balancing tricky.
sarahb5,
Jun 25, 1:30pm
I went with a Panasonic heat pump - put the cost interest free on my rates over 3 years. I have the timer set to come on for a couple of hours in the morning and again to come on 30 minutes before we get home from work. It’s so warm I keep having to turn it down and it’s only set at 18 degrees.
tweake,
Jun 25, 2:27pm
one thing to watch is sometimes the heat pumps will overshot the temp you set it at.eg you set it at 18 but you actually get 22. i have a couple here that do that. temp gauge in the room helps.
joanie32,
Jun 25, 3:14pm
I have two houses on my property
One is toasty warm and dry
One has mushrooms growing in the carpet and black mould on the windows.
The biggest difference is that the house we live in has the windows oppened each day and better insulation.
It’s simple to keep a house warm and dry
It doesn’t require a visit from a failed real estate agent that got a days training before becoming a ventilation expert.
It requires using the muscle above they eyebrows
sarahb5,
Jun 25, 3:19pm
I don’t care what temperature it gets to really - if it’s too hot i turn it off - simple really
joanie32,
Jun 25, 3:20pm
You have admitted you have a wet, cold house
And spent a fortune to achieve that
Calling other people a troll is getting desperate
Shhhhh up
Listen
And learn.
stylus1,
Jun 25, 4:13pm
before you spend money on fans, double the insulation in the ceiling, fit a showerdome over the shower and use some sort of heating. Also fit honeycomb blinds which keep the heating and are cheap and easy to install. Open bedroom windows in the morning for a while. Don't just walk out of the house in the morning leaving curtains drawn and windows shut.
familiadude1,
Jun 26, 3:21pm
I'm still unsure which one to go for. They all seem about $200 within each other price wise. Had extra insulation installed in ceiling. Also had floor done too. In terms of heating we have a heatpump in the lounge and a heatpump in the master bedroom which takes care of the bedrooms at night(house is only 90sqm) condensation is an issue as we have aluminium frames(single glazed) and house was built in 2003. Have being using the karcher window vac and opening the windows for the last year and still getting alot of condensation on some windows(south facing side especially)
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