We have 2 strong young apples trees, a Cox's orange and Peasgood Nonsuch, and last year although only a year old, both gave us beautiful sweet apples. This year, every single apple on both trees are riddled with the Codling Moth disease. Can this REALLY be controlled, or should I pull both trees out and replace with Oranges, which grow like weeds here. I'd like to try one more year, and hit the codling moth with everything I can to stop them, treacle traps, spray, Pheromone traps, Neem oil. you name it! But the trick question us "when"? When do I start this regime? We live in the Horowhenua region. Also any other tips or tricks that are known to kill these bloody Codling Moths are greatly appreciated.
dibble35,
Jan 21, 9:53pm
I'd try for another year or 2. I've heard the P.N. apple is lovely. You should remove any windfall fruit and dispose of it - not in compost. Apply spraying oil during winter to suffocate any overwintering caterpillars - thorough coverage needed. You can apply corrugated cardboard bands in early winter/late autumn to trap larvae as they descend to pupate. Remove and burn the cardboard bands in early winter. And remove flaky bark on trees to reduce overwintering sites - Debris on the ground as well I think. I just read in my natural control book that flowering parsnips were very successful at attracting natural predators into the garden, and once established they seed themselves. I'm going thru this at the moment with guava moth in my plums. 1st year I've had them but I will fight with all sorts of natural predators/deterrents till I find something that works. Another thing you could try in planting some wormwood under the trees. the smell is meant to keep pests away
ceebee2,
Jan 21, 9:55pm
It is controllable either using Pheramone (SP) traps or simply wrap greasy rags around the base of each apple tree and tie them there. This prevents the catapillars crawling up the tree. Time to apply it is when the blossoms start to form.
blondie07,
Jan 22, 12:15am
There's ties you can get you put them on each trees they send out the female scent so the males just fire blanks and disrupt mating. Spraying oils at bud break helps but insecticide sprays are good you should only need 2 sprays most seasons and residues in the fruit will be minimal. Mitre ten will have all the stuff you need
vic008,
Jan 22, 1:01am
Rud Keimplast(?) on the radio last sat morning covered this. Think it may have been posted on Radiolive or the other one.
racheal77,
Jan 22, 1:04am
I tried the ties this year as well and the problem is worse than ever, nearly every apple is infected .
skin1235,
Jan 22, 1:05am
I also gave up on the recommended sprays etc, now I use silage tape wrapped around the trunk ( 100mm wide tape) and liberally coat it with engineers grease as it fills I simply wipe it off ( burn the rag) and reapply, doesn't stop them all but decreases the incidence a lot
its a bit ambo at the bottom of the hill though - the moth lays eggs on the fruit or leaves, the bug eats his way through the fruit ans often just drops to the ground, he'll then crawl back up the tree to lodge in crevices or holes to pupate to emerge as a moth next year, sometimes he will simply crawl down the tree to find a likely spot to spin his cocoon based on that it may be prudent to apply a couple of bands, one high, one low obviously it must be possible to eliminate or greatly reduce them otherwise commercial growers would take serious production hits - be very nice if the trees at home showed the same nil evidence as theirs do
skin1235,
Jan 22, 1:07am
at some time it was mentioned that the blue light electrocution method could be helpful anyone tried this at all use the fizz and fry at the appropriate time ( moth flight I guess ), but when is that and for how long
ambo11,
Jan 22, 2:26am
Cheers guys, have also heard the pheromone traps and ties are useless for just a couple of home trees. be keen to try the grease and there's a couple of easy recipes on the net of liquids to hang in the tree, moths fly into in and are killed. Will try spray plus liquid traps and grease next year. Thanks all.
bugin,
Jan 22, 4:54am
You should be able to spray 3-4 times from mid October roughly 3 weeks apart ,use Proclaim if you can buy it .
fogs,
Jan 22, 5:14am
the pheromone traps are only a useful guide to show when you have to spray. We use Carbryl every 14 days from blossom fall to harvest on our 4 apple trees works a treat
maclad,
Jan 22, 10:57am
You have it right, this works well, even just at blossom fall will make a big difference but timing is crucial
.jillybeen.,
Jan 22, 12:22pm
Use a knife to cut out the bugs, lovely healthy apple left. If the bugs are there the fruit is good to eat.
freedreamz,
Jan 22, 12:49pm
also did this with no results, fruit is full of worms.
herc18,
Jan 22, 4:40pm
Yes I found tying two lots of pantyhose smeared with vicks vaporub around the trunk high and low has keep my apple tree/apples moth free for two years.
thea4,
Jan 22, 5:32pm
I have been told planting dwarf Nastursiums at the base of the tree keeps the moths away they do not like the scent.Haven't tried it tho
bugin,
Jan 22, 6:11pm
Do not use carbaryl ,or any other broad spectrum insecticide.These will kill all your beneficial (predator ) insects(lady birds, mantis,wooly aphid predators ,bees ) as well as the codlin moth .They are also very dangerous for humans and using several of them guarantees you will have residues in you fruit .This is very bad advise from people with little knowledge of good hort. practices. You must use a target specific spray ,such as Mimic , Prolific ,Voliam-Targo ,or Proclaim .The problem is these are only supplied to people with a Growsafe/Approved handler certification .I do not think you can buy lifestyle sized packs ,but you can ask at Farmlands or your local chemical supplier. Nasturtiums and marigolds around the trees will definitely help a lot .
bugin,
Jan 22, 6:17pm
Pheremone traps show the population pressure of the moths . Pheremone (mating disruption )ties/tapes confuse the males and prevent mating ,therefore no burrowing caterpillars.Check the "use by "date on the pack as they don't last for ever . One other spray you can safely apply is Granulosis Virus ,but it is not long lasting and needs redoing each week or two.
mottly,
Jan 23, 12:48am
vaseline nice n thick around the trunk was the old trick - worked pretty well - chicken's will get the blighters too - if you've got room for a chicken or two :)
fogs,
Jan 23, 5:09am
We have used Carbrayl for over 12 years we have plenty of the benficial insects on our section even have some of the native bees, so the use of carbaryl hasn't effected our garden except. gosh we have apples to eat that are not riddled with worms. We tried for 8 years to not use insecticides the traps the vasoline round the trunk none of them worked, Carbrayl does.
bugin,
Jan 23, 6:57pm
It is so easy to keep damaging the environment rather tan think about a better way.Many orchardists used to think like this ,and some still do . Fortunately the majority of us have embraced a much more efficient and effective management system. Carbaryl is banned on export apples now . You can feed your family any poison you like ,personally I wont use this
blondie07,
Jan 23, 8:54pm
2nd that
bev00,
Jan 24, 6:01am
good stuff to know .
juliewn,
Jan 24, 8:41pm
What brand did you use please. thanks.
ambo11,
Jan 24, 10:13pm
I'd like to know too, this year I used pheromone traps, a liquid recipe from the net, plus the sticky bands. and apples are riddled with codling moth. Next year it will be Carbaryl for sure. Just wanted to try everything else first, but it was a big fail.
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