have an existing room, walls are stuffed, so ripping out the old linings (60 years old and damaged everywhere).
Going to reline all the walls with gib, but have a question regarding door frames, and lining around them.
have had one person (builder) say you can just but the gib up to the door frame, and another say that you have to remoe the flashing from around the door frame, line the walls, then put the flashings back on. Hoping to get advice from some builders or experienced DIY-ers?
Oh, and one other thing, we have a high wall mounted heat pump - whats the best procedure with that, can you line around it, or does it need to come off?
tillsbury,
Aug 12, 6:20am
Everything has to come off, really. You might then have to straighten the framing and/or batten it out so that the architraves and skirting boards fit (because the old lining might not be the same thickness -- if it is you're good to go). Speak to a heat pump guy to decommission the heat pump and then reinstate it after you're all done and painted.
ingies,
Aug 12, 6:26am
Pay someone to do the gib stopping, you will end up with a professional looking finish. And be careful how you lay out the sheets of gib, don't have them finish on a window or frame, it will crack the gibstopping in the future
johotech,
Aug 12, 7:04am
So you've already had advice from two "builders" - one of which is an idiot. Presumably you also got prices from them which you don't like the size of?
You don't know what a "flashing" is actually called. Never fitted any gib before and presumably never done any gibstopping.
What you really need to do is hire a local tradesman who specializes in small jobs. Check that they have good references for quality work. If any of them don't want to take the "flashings" off (architraves & skirtings), don't hire them!
Also you haven't mentioned the cornice (the funny corner thing that meets the ceiling). What did your "experts" say about that?
tigertim20,
Aug 12, 7:05am
yes, am aware of the straightening etc, no issue getting that done!
re the heatpump, any idea what that will cost to have removed then refitted?
tigertim20,
Aug 12, 7:14am
Well that was quite presumptuous!
I have done gib work before though it was some time ago. Not concerned about the work, but prior work was on new builds - so removing stuff wasnt an issue.
No, I did not get quotes from either, one was a friend, the other was the office girls partner, with whom I only had a brief conversation with while he popped in to see her at lunch . . .
Im not particularly hung up on having the correct term - this doesn't make me ignorant as to the size of the job.
Plenty of people do jobs of this nature themselves, simply making sure I have all the information before I start.
underconstructy,
Aug 12, 7:38am
This will go well.
mm12345,
Aug 12, 7:48am
What are the old linings? The whole job might be simpler, much less expensive if the old wall lining is repaired /skimmed as required. First call should be to a plasterer IMO, unless you're sure the walls are stuffed beyond repair.
golfaholic2,
Aug 12, 7:55am
If the heatpump can be eased forward off the wall , and supported in some way , you could run an extra horizontal join that will pass behind the heatpump . more towards the top of it . ( a strip if you will) , 60mm from the top will hide the tapered edge . Then the sheet under the strip allows you to cut around the pipework/wiring of the heatpump , with the heatpump hiding those cuts .
I'd rather stop an extra join than pay God knows what for a serviceman to decommission etc .
If the heatpump is nearer the ceiling , maybe just slot past the heatpump (pryed off the wall etc) and plaster a few small joins above .
With the age of the house , I'd doubt you need to give much consideration to bracing needs of the wall in respect to cutting around the heat pump
tigertim20,
Aug 12, 8:20am
hi, heat pumps are something I dont know a whole heap about, and given that it is fairly recent, Ill just pay the cost of removal / re-install for that as if it gets broken . . .
tigertim20,
Aug 12, 8:28am
fibrous plasterboard.
The house was a rental for quite a few years, and it went through a succession of very poor repairs - looks like a drunk person has tried to plaster the damage with a butter knife. . .
We did explore the plastering option, however one plasterer gave us a quote, then wont respond to emails, letters or phone calls since we accepted the quote and asked for a bank account to pay a deposit.
the second one didnt even get as far as getting back to us with a quote, despite the same repeated calls etc.
the third is a similar story again. if the customer service sucks, then I dont trust them to do the job right either.
For the size of the job, its a very similar price to do all the gib stuff myself, even if I pay for the stopping through a bloke I know who does good work, as it is to get it plastered, based on the quotes I actually received.
johotech,
Aug 12, 9:11am
I see you are in Dunedin. Have you tried Cramond and Craig for the plastering? Call "Yogi" on 0274351022
It may just need a few patches of gib and a full skim. You may need to sand it (roughly) and put oil based sealer on before the skim coat.
It would be better and cheaper than relining including architraves & skirtings etc. Plus, you haven't mentioned what you plan to do with the cornices?
Doing it without replacing architraves & skirting at a minimum, would be rough as.
tigertim20,
Oct 29, 5:56am
I'll have a look back through the emails and calls ive made, as a few places did respond to say the job was smaller than they were interested in - but i cant remember if they were one I contacted originally or not.
theyll all get replaced, as they arent expensive. I expected a battle from the wife as the current ones are rimu, (not the cornices) and Im not fond of them. surprisingly she said when she got home tongiht that she is happy to ditch them, (I expected a fight haha) which makes things much easier.
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