I have an old Skyline garage and would like to raise the roof so I can get a vehicle hoist in there.
I was speaking a little while ago to someone who sells garages for a living and they mentioned that since the Christchurch Earthquake you could replace your garage with a similar one without a building consent. Even in other areas of NZ.
Apparently you just drop the new plans into the council and there was enough leeway for me to raise the roof 80cm or so.
Does anyone know anything about this! Any other suggestions with regard to raising the roof and how to do it from a DIY perspecitve!
I am off to be shortly but will check in on this tomorrow. Many thanks in advance!
tillsbury,
Feb 17, 10:27am
Have you tried popping into the council and asking!That might get you a decent answer.don't mean to sound silly but they're the ones who matter.
tillsbury,
Feb 17, 10:29am
Remember that "raising the roof" isn't really an option usually.You can build a new garage with a higher roof, probably, unless you're particularly near the boundaries of your property (recession planes etc).But the new higher garage will have to be engineered with bracing to suit the higher walls, and will need to be stronger than those usually built.
thejazzpianoma,
Feb 17, 10:45am
I prefer to research first, from past experience there are one or two at certain council office's that will lead you to believe you need a building consent, permission from IWI, a building inspector, engineer and licensed contractors just to make sure you are wiping your bum correctly. let alone build anything.
thejazzpianoma,
Feb 17, 10:47am
This is probably what I will end up doing in reality, I certainly am not too keen on the idea of any sort of join in the walls, legal or not. However for the moment I am open to all suggestions, no harm in hearing about all approaches especially as the budget is very limited.
spiritofgonzo,
Feb 17, 5:33pm
usually, as long as it complies with daylighting with your neighbours, and as long as the roof has the same plan size, then you don't need to re consent.You still need council to sign off after it's built which will cost a few hundred.I would still check with your council though.
brapbrappy,
Feb 17, 8:03pm
Vehicle hoist orengine hoist! If you really want to install a vehicle hoistthat presumably means you want to conduct commercial activities involving car repairs and the council might want to know about this.
russ18,
Feb 17, 8:06pm
What about a concrete / concrete block base!
thejazzpianoma,
Feb 17, 9:07pm
Yes, am considering this option as well, not too worried about the windows being higher and am am going to replace the tiltadoors anyway. So this is certainly on the short list for consideration. Not sure what the council will think of that though.
thejazzpianoma,
Feb 17, 9:09pm
You presume wrong. It is a vehicle hoist and they are cheap enough now that many hobbyists are installing them. In my case especially, its well worth it asfor medical reasons I can't exert myself very much and have to do as much work as I can sitting down etc.
mrfxit,
Feb 18, 12:15am
Your real problem will be TOTAL height including any roof peaks etc. I suspect it will be 3 meters for domestic areas. Other then that you could embed the base of the hoist in to the floor to get max lift plus if not being used then you would have a flat-ish floor area to use for other things. Seen that done in a few older garages.
thejazzpianoma,
Feb 18, 1:48am
You raise a good point, I will have a look through and see if there are any total height restrictions. Western Bay Council are usually pretty good as we are a semi rural area. Thanks.
mrfxit,
Feb 18, 2:13am
As for raising the roof anymore then a few inch's
You could build 4 steel corner poles & sink them in to the ground (properly/ concrete & all) brace between them & use those for your new roof height & then simply attach the old walls & extend them up to the new frame height. (Roof off job for assembly) Poles inside OR outside OR
Have the shed wall surround lifted & insert longer piles (correct depth/strengthfor height of new walls).
When I did a rebuild of my s/h shed on to site, I fitted piles that were 900mm above ground (corners were 1m down) to take the fitted walls up to the local max of 3 meters. Was a std -ish 6.4m L x 3.2m W x 2.1m H . & is now a 6.4m L x 4.2m W x 3m H with permits
accroul,
Feb 18, 2:30am
I'd be concerned about having adequate bracing in the building.The bracing on a Skyline garage 2.1 high, will differ from a 2.4 & even more would be required not only in the roof structure but also in the walls to support the additional weight.
mrfxit,
Feb 18, 2:39am
No additional weight on the walls if fitting longer piles underneath All I had to do was double the base plate
elect70,
Feb 18, 4:39am
Council dont do anything for free .As far as they are concerned you are altering the structure thereforeconsents required .Minimum of $200 I wanted to do the same to get my Disco in garage(hi roof)) - council wantedplans of garage&details of new roof trusses. Didnt botherso it sits outsideunder atarpfixed to 1 wall
supernova2,
Feb 18, 5:23am
As long as the footprint of the building never alters the council will never notice.The problem will be when a neighbour complains or you go to sell and someone checks the council file and the drawings dont match the reality.
The interesting thing is that when the council check for the issue of the code complience in my experience they never check that what is erected is the same as the plans.If it was 2mtrs higher they might just notice.
How high to you need to lift the roof!Can you achieve the same result by altering the pitch, or adding a dormer to the roof!
Problem thesedays is you are altering the building envelope which makes it restricted work - not sure if that applies to a garage though.
Adding a section into the walls is not really an issue from a design and structural point.As long as you use the correct connection method you will be fine.
If your existing is a branded shedc have you asked the makers if they can do what you need!That way they will sort out the council requirements.Sometimes that can actually be the easiest and often actual cheapest option.
Just out of interest what sort of hoist are you contemplating!
thejazzpianoma,
Feb 18, 6:13am
Thanks Supernova2,
Just been looking at it again now,
Its an annoying one from many perspectives, as every way I look at it its a compromise and to do the job properly I would need to start from scratch, bigger size, rip up the concrete etc which I just don't have budget for.
Having looked at it again I am now very tempted just to lift the roof, and add some pre-built sub walls on to the top of the existing walls.
Do you know what the approved fixing method would be!
If I was to ignore the council and code I would probably just run two beads of liquid nails over the top rail and then vigorously nailgun the new bottom rail of the sub wall to the old top rail, so using liquid nails and real nails together. To me that would be plenty strong but an engineer might laugh at me. I could certainly put some bolts right on through too if that helped.
What height would I like to lift it to! Stud is 2.1 right now, 3.8 would be great but I would settle for 3.0 if I had to.
I have actually talked to the Skyline guys who were super helpful. Trouble is though for them to do it and meet their standards own standards, new building code etc they would have to start again from scratch. Including new floor too really as the shed is so old the floor will be quite thin apparently.
The only saving grace is possibly not needing to pay for a full building consent as they seemed to think they could do the like for like thing. Still a very expensive exercise though.
Neighbours possibly won't mind/notice too much. Only one that is close is actually well elevated with a retaining wall and I would say 3M between shed ground level and the ground level of their house.
Other neighbour is just an orchard with no house and the only other one that would see it is well away.
Hoist wise, if it was a new shed I would put a 2 poster in. However because this shed is an annoying 5.5 x 5.5 I think I will change it to one wide roller door and go for a portable Scissor hoist that would normally be in the middle. I may change my mind though as I have not got as far as looking hard at hoists yet.
Thanks for your thoughts!
andrewcg53,
Feb 18, 6:23am
You don't need a new consent so long as it is within the old space but you still need to apply for a variation on theold consent talk with the council about it.
thejazzpianoma,
Feb 18, 6:42am
Thanks for that, this the sort of info I was after. If I sound like I have some idea of what's available they are more likely to allow it.
thejazzpianoma,
Feb 18, 7:14am
Yeah, that sounds like a better plan with the bolts. Its a shame about the Council, our house is an old Mortgagee doup and I have limited funds and energy due to having CFS so we keep getting in tricky positions.
We have multiple jobs that need consent's done, but because I can only manage an hour or so of active work a day, the 2 year limit rolls around pretty quick if I combine too many jobs in one consent. The new laws are just a further pain in the bum as well and what gets my goat is they will do nothing to solve the causes of the leaky building drama's.
mrfxit,
Feb 18, 7:24pm
Bolting the top/bottom plates together won't do squat. You need to run a brace vertically about a bare minimum of 20cm/ 40cm either side of the new roof top/bottom joint to stop the joint from bowing/flexing.
Top/bottom plates are only suitable for loading vertically & have NO real support for sideways flex. / \
This is where longer piles have a far better support strength because they are concreted in at a reasonable depth
budgel,
Feb 18, 7:50pm
One advantage of building a (reinforced and filled) concrete block base is that it will meet bracing requirements on its own and the existing bracing for the framed walls could stay the same as the block wall is essentially a foundation.
thejazzpianoma,
Feb 18, 7:59pm
O.K, I think I understand where you are coming from. Little bit fuzzy on the piles, are you saying cut a square out of the concrete floor where the piles are to go and then dig on down say a meter and back fill with concrete!
Building is not really my thing so I need to ask the silly questions.
Also. from what you said above, even if I was to completely dissasemble the shed and build new walls from scratch, simply dynabolting those walls to the concrete is not enough because of the height of the new walls!
thejazzpianoma,
Feb 18, 8:00pm
Good point, I am really starting to see the merits of this approach.
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